At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2
- Thread starter pgarner
- Start date
Getting ever a little closer to being "finished" Am envious of your skills and determination.
Yup, every day a little closer.
Update on door window frame. Tidied it up, but will leave final detailed shaping until carbon roof is made and I can match it up to the opening.
With regard to the roof, first half of the mul dhas been laid up. Luckily it has to cure for 24 hours before I can remove the central devider as I have run out of firbeglass. I will order a roll in a minute, should be here on Tuesday.
A days work (which includes waiting for gelcoat to tack up) and the second half of the mould is done. It has to be left for at least 24 hours to properly cure then I can begin the task of releasing it, which can go one of two ways 
You are never too old to learn new techniques. I have been making car parts out of fibreglass for nigh on 50 years with a lot of success.
Started off simply attaching arches to Anglias and progressed over the years to culminate in producing moulds for prepreg carbon parts including the complete front clip for the Elan.
Over the years I have used the same method - cut the FG piece to the required size, lay on a board, soak with resin, pick up and position in place. Works well if a little (OK, very) messy but I knew no better.
When making the mould for the roof I used this method for the first section, angain no problems apart from the frist layer of lightweight woven cloth being awkward with a mnd of its own. The subsequent heavier layers weren't a problem.
However, I was watching a video of an Australian guy making a mould for his race car and noticed that he brushed resin on to the pattern first then added DRY FG and brushed on resin afterwards. This was a lightbulb moment! SO much easier. I made the second part of the roof mould using this method - cleaner AND quicker
One downside of this method is that it traps more air bubbles than the wet lay method.
It has since transpired that this is the normal way to do it and even my son does it this way! Oh well, better late than never
Started off simply attaching arches to Anglias and progressed over the years to culminate in producing moulds for prepreg carbon parts including the complete front clip for the Elan.
Over the years I have used the same method - cut the FG piece to the required size, lay on a board, soak with resin, pick up and position in place. Works well if a little (OK, very) messy but I knew no better.
When making the mould for the roof I used this method for the first section, angain no problems apart from the frist layer of lightweight woven cloth being awkward with a mnd of its own. The subsequent heavier layers weren't a problem.
However, I was watching a video of an Australian guy making a mould for his race car and noticed that he brushed resin on to the pattern first then added DRY FG and brushed on resin afterwards. This was a lightbulb moment! SO much easier. I made the second part of the roof mould using this method - cleaner AND quicker
One downside of this method is that it traps more air bubbles than the wet lay method.
It has since transpired that this is the normal way to do it and even my son does it this way! Oh well, better late than never
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This was my first use of my 200gm/m2 stuff. As it was being 'persuaded' to come out of the mould I was thinking, Oooooo, this seems too flimsy, maybe I have overstepped the mark and been just a layer too ambitious (only two layers). However, once out it seems pretty good and will stiffen up once married to the rest of the door. The curve adds a lot of tension stiffness so I think that it is a goer
Weight? 379gms I reckon I should be able to get the door very close to 1kg.
Mould wasn't glossy hence the dullness. No pinholes but a few defects that I didn't notice in the mould. However, these will fill easily and be covered with paint so no worries I added a couple of extra strips where the door latch button will be.
Weight? 379gms
I reckon I should be able to get the door very close to 1kg.Mould wasn't glossy hence the dullness. No pinholes but a few defects that I didn't notice in the mould. However, these will fill easily and be covered with paint so no worries
I added a couple of extra strips where the door latch button will be.Showed my effort to my prepreg supplier's tech rep and discussed the merits of 3 layers of 200gms compared to one layer of 200 and one layer of 400 for the roof as I don't think two layers of 200gm will be enough. He replied:
"That door looks really good and the weight is perfect, a 1kg door is impressive. The dull finish actually makes it easier to paint – chasing a high gloss finish is actually something of a fallacy unless the part is on display with no laquer.
3 x 200gsm will actually give more stiffness than 1x 200 and 1x 400 gsm – although there’s not a huge amount in it"
Made me feel a whole lot better Onward and upward with attempting to remove the mould from the roof.
"That door looks really good and the weight is perfect, a 1kg door is impressive. The dull finish actually makes it easier to paint – chasing a high gloss finish is actually something of a fallacy unless the part is on display with no laquer.
3 x 200gsm will actually give more stiffness than 1x 200 and 1x 400 gsm – although there’s not a huge amount in it"
Made me feel a whole lot better
Onward and upward with attempting to remove the mould from the roof.The eagle eyed, mould experienced guys amongst you will probably have noticed my schoolboy mistake. I was so worried that the mould would be a curse word to get off that I forgot about drilling holes for the attachment bolts used to join the two parts together. You drill these BEFORE you remove the mould to ensure that the two or more parts re-assemble correctly.
Wally of the first order. However, the saving grace is that, as the mould came off so cleanly, I was able to re-attach it to the roof and drill the holes. Phew!
Wally of the first order. However, the saving grace is that, as the mould came off so cleanly, I was able to re-attach it to the roof and drill the holes. Phew!
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If I never see another Elan door mould it will a lifetime too early This door has 47 pieces (which include strengthening plates for hinges etc) and I have just laid up the first of two layers. Trying to stick carbon to a surface that is treated with release agent is no simple task when you have a lot of angles to contend with. Lots of heat gun action was required.
This door has 47 pieces (which include strengthening plates for hinges etc) and I have just laid up the first of two layers. Trying to stick carbon to a surface that is treated with release agent is no simple task when you have a lot of angles to contend with. Lots of heat gun action was required.Yes he did and quite a few didn't make it that far! I haven't gone that mad, it needs to last at least 2 runs
Door carcus came out of the mould pretty easily, mainly due to it being rather flimsy I just may have overdone it this time. However, I will reserve judgement until it is married to the front skin. Torsionally it is pretty good, mainly due to the steps along the edges so I think it will work........fingers crossed because it weighs as close to nothing as is humanly possible, IMHO. So far, the two pieces add up to 909gms. Factor in joining material and glue, less a hole for hinge access but plus additional stiffening in hinge areas, I reckon is will end up around 1.1 - 1.2kg. Not to be sniffed at.
Grey marks caused by paint pulled off of the mould surface. Not a problem as it will be painted.
I just may have overdone it this time. However, I will reserve judgement until it is married to the front skin. Torsionally it is pretty good, mainly due to the steps along the edges so I think it will work........fingers crossed because it weighs as close to nothing as is humanly possible, IMHO. So far, the two pieces add up to 909gms. Factor in joining material and glue, less a hole for hinge access but plus additional stiffening in hinge areas, I reckon is will end up around 1.1 - 1.2kg. Not to be sniffed at.Grey marks caused by paint pulled off of the mould surface. Not a problem as it will be painted.
Roof mould ready for carbon, just awaiting the arrival of peel ply as I have run out.
However, curing is going to be a long, drawn out process. I didn't realiase that the mould paste that I used to form the window recesses is only designed for low temperatures, lower than the minimum temp that the carbon will cure at. However, speaking to EasyComposites they reckon that it can be pushed to an absolute maximum of 80 deg C. The carbon's minimum cure temp happens to be 80 so I think that I may get away with it. However the cure time is 16 hours! This means an early start time as I don't want to leave the oven running unattended over night.
However, curing is going to be a long, drawn out process. I didn't realiase that the mould paste that I used to form the window recesses is only designed for low temperatures, lower than the minimum temp that the carbon will cure at. However, speaking to EasyComposites they reckon that it can be pushed to an absolute maximum of 80 deg C. The carbon's minimum cure temp happens to be 80 so I think that I may get away with it. However the cure time is 16 hours! This means an early start time as I don't want to leave the oven running unattended over night.
Door latch handle proof of concept. Once I have taken the slack out of the lock mechanism, it should be good to go. My original push button weighs 42gms, this lever weighs 7gms. Times 2 = 70gms saving All donations gratefully received.
All donations gratefully received.Good to see that the OCD on weight reduction is still alive and well
It pervades my every waking thought, and some dreams
YesDreams or nightmares ?
Took 5 hours but this video is only the first 2! Don't worry, it is only one minute long
Two layers plus additional strip over joints and 6 layers around window openings.
Took a lot longer than anticipated so I will bag tomorrow and cook on Firday.
Completed.
Two layers plus additional strip over joints and 6 layers around window openings.
Took a lot longer than anticipated so I will bag tomorrow and cook on Firday.
Completed.
Tried to source some M10 1.5 pitch aluminium bolts tonight, but the best price I could find was £5.30 each! Sod that, so I will be making them tomorrow. Can't do allen key heads so they will have to be standard hex heads. Need 8 so an hour or so to make, once set up. One advantage of making them myself is that I can build the spreader washer into them.
Tweaked the passenger door so it fits the opening a litle better. Todo that I cut through the frame, twisted it, held it in place and carboned over the cuts. Look naff at the moment but I will trim it up once cured.
With regard to the driver's door, I have worked out how to secure the base of the lexan window and made a couple of aluminium moulds which are at present covered in carbon and cooking at 120deg C.
While that was going on I rumminated on how to fit the two parts of the door together. I think that I will butt join them with a 20mm carbon strip holding the two sections together. Watch this space
With regard to the driver's door, I have worked out how to secure the base of the lexan window and made a couple of aluminium moulds which are at present covered in carbon and cooking at 120deg C.
While that was going on I rumminated on how to fit the two parts of the door together. I think that I will butt join them with a 20mm carbon strip holding the two sections together. Watch this space
Lunchmoney
The Torque Meister
Might want to start your own thread rather than hijacking someone's project thread.
charger69
Pro Tuner
Ur still not done with the car mate? LoL you look good on camera btw Just kidding, hope you don't mind.
Love the progress, amazing work done!
Just kidding, hope you don't mind.Love the progress, amazing work done!
Ur still not done with the car mate? LoL you look good on camera btw
Love the progress, amazing work done!
No, but a lot closer. Although retired, the lockdown meant that I stayed at home so have been able to spend a lot more time in the garage, resulting in all the big carbon jobs being done. Now I am working on getting the body ready for paint, but this isn't an easy jobs as there are a lot of areas that need finishing.
charger69
Pro Tuner
Agree, bodywork is delicate
We have been having a major tidy up of the barn and finding lots of stuff. One thing I found was a tin of Isopon P40, my favourite filler/repair paste. I thought, great, as I had a need for some. However, on opening the tin the paste was a little stiffer than I remembered. Then I thought about it and this tin was bought when I was still living at home, so it is at least 38 years old and probably over 40! Used it for a small repair but decided to bin it and get a new pot for the the next 40 years
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