American Cars

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By PeterYankie on Tuesday, November 04, 2003 - 04:11 pm: Edit

Are American cars expensive to run? Where are the best places to get parts for them?

By Warren on Saturday, November 15, 2003 - 08:41 am: Edit


There are probably more parts for Yank cars than any others.
Just type your parts wanted into Google.

By Xavier (Xav) on Thursday, November 27, 2003 - 03:20 pm: Edit


Welcome to the forum! there are loads of internet online shops that specialize in them as well!
 
re american car

i own a 1978 chevy camaro fitted with a 7.5lt corvette engine pushing about 480bhp if you drive it sensable i get about 18mpg 70mph 2000 rpm drive it like it should be driven about 6mpg 1/4 mile 9.8secs but standard american cars do between 20 to 30 mpg depending on how heavy your right foot is. most parts are cheap front discs and pads for me camaro cost me 52pounds. service if you do it yourself costs around 65.00 thats plugs leads oil filters dizzy cap rotor. if any body needs to know where to get parts from pm me and i will give you a tele number the guy is very good
 
Kemo - Someone asked about oil for a Viper putting out about 520bhp? He was thinking about using 30w50. The standard spec was about 5w30 - any suggestions on oil type for these super powerfull American blocks?

I would have thought that a 15w20 would be closer to the engines needs but really don't know enough about these engines. I guess they run pretty hot!
 
re oil

if it was me i would use a 10/40 semi or fully synthetic oil that exceeds the acea a3_96/ccmc G5,api sh specs Kendal oil exceeds these specs and being an American oil you dont need to measure it out as it is sold in qts instead of lts it is about 15 quid a can but well worth it if the guy pm's me i will give him a tele number the guy lives just down the road from me and all he does is american car parts
 
Re: re oil

Most American V8's,

are happy enough with 10w40, 10w60 or even 20w50. Increased oil usage is common when using thinner stuff (5w-- or 0w--)

Here is an interesting write-up about the way power claims for big V8's fell drastically to a more realistic level during the 1970's (use of J607 standard and NET SAE hp)..........

454

".......The big-block was expanded again for 1970 to 454 cubic inches (7.4 L) with a 4.251" (108.0 mm) bore and 4" (100 mm) stroke.
The 1970 Chevy Corvette LS5 version of this engine produced 390 hp (291 kW) and 500 lb·ft (680 Nm), and the LS6 engine was rated at 450 hp (340 kW). It has been suggested that the LS6 was substantially underrated and actually produced well over 500 horsepower (370 kW) as delivered from the factory, although there is no empirical evidence to support this claim. Indeed, the AHRA ASA Class record holding Chevelle LS6 for the 1970 season posted a record setting trap speed of 106.76 mph (171.81 km/h) "1970 ASA LS6 454 Records", which suggests something on the order of 370 "as installed" (SAE Net) HP for a 3,900 pounds (1,800 kg) car and driver combination.
Power began falling off after 1970, with the 1971 LS5 producing 365 hp (272 kW) and 465 lb·ft (630 N·m), and the LS6 option coming in at 425 hp (317 kW) and 475 lb·ft (644 N·m). Only the LS5 remained in 1972, when SAE net power ratings and the move towards emission compliance resulted in to 270 hp (200 kW) and 390 lb·ft (530 N·m).
The 1973 LS4 produced 275 hp (205 kW) and 390 lb·ft (530 N·m), with 5 hp (3.7 kW) and 10 lb·ft (14 N·m) gone the following year. Hardened valve seats helped allow these engines to last much longer than the earlier versions, even without the protection previously provided by lead from fuel. 1974 was the last year of the 454 in the Corvette though the Chevelle offered it in the first 1/2 of the 1975 model year. It was also available in the full size Impala/Caprice until model year 1976.
GM continued to use the 7.4 L (454 cu in) in their truck line, introducing a new Vortec 7400 version in 1996. GM also introduced the 7.4 L 454 EFI in 1990 (known as the GEN V; the previous generation was known as the Mark IV produced between 1965-90;
Instead of the regular 290 hp (220 kW), the 454 EFI version cranked out 365 hp (272 kW) and 415 lb·ft (563 N·m) of torque. The 454 EFI power ratings were very similar to the early 1970s LS5 454, which was found in early 1970s corvettes and chevelles..........." (source: Wiki)
 
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usually old american cars have a big fuel usage, but the new ones, should have passed that problem, dunno yet much for the new ones.
in my place, having an american car means that you're rich and you have style.
 
usually old american cars have a big fuel usage, but the new ones, should have passed that problem, dunno yet much for the new ones.
in my place, having an american car means that you're rich and you have style.

The GM engined manual gearbox Corvettes are about the only V8's that don't get whacked with the American "gas-guzzler" tax. 24 m.p.g. isn't bad from a 6.2L V8 M6.

But as for owning one meaning a person's rich and has style....
With Chrysler bankrupt, GM just about there and Ford with not much longer to go before it's in the same boat. They'd love to hear that from more people I'm sure! European and Japanese cars have swept the American car industry into the bin.
Australia's GM-Holden are responsible for the re-birth of the RWD V8 muscle car for GM and maybe only the Pontiac G8 will survive, who knows.
 
well i wish my 79 trans am did above 15 but if it did then it would not be as good as it is

my 87 trans am that does about 25 +

and am hoping to get a new one that is a 00 trans am but i dont think that will do to much as the engine and box are done up to give it a low time on the strip but this will be my every day car so will be fun lol


but i dont think it makes much diff on the price they are worth more in the summer then winter does not matter what it is a 4x4 one might stay around the same
but i am just about to put my 79 up for sale to pay my new one and i will stick it up for about 5 grand in the winter its only worth 2 maybe 3
 
Hi Lutonmatt,

Where do you find the cars you are interested in?
Is it only Pontiac?
The 2000 model you mention will have the LS1 engine I mentioned to you before. Along with the 4L60-E transmission.
 
hi sid
i find them on the pontiac club or ebay
i do like other yank cars but the ones i like are to much money and i know a bit about pontiacs so best to stick with them plus i am the events manager for the pontiac club s o have to have a pontiac

sorry my bad the new one i am looking at is a 01 not 00 i know it does not make a diff ya it does have the ls1 it has a race can with race kit lifters ect with bigger intake and headers and the box has all kever bands and what not but a clip inside the box come loose and come out of the side so have to rebuild that witch is no proplems will only take a night or so
but should be good might even do a few stip times never done it before as i have never had a car that will do 12sec or less
 
Good for you!


Hope it works out for you. An '01 should have the up-rated con-rod bolts.
May even have the LS6 intake if you are lucky. If the engine rocker covers have three centre bolts (under the coil packs) and not around the edge of the cover it's definately not an early engine.
The engine number is on the front of the block just behind the thermostat. It should start with either VF00 or VF01. This will show the build date of the engine.

Some basic info here:-
http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/E...p?engId=LS1&engine=LS1&sku=25534322&engCat=ls

I'd be interested to know what cam is in it. Check it has up-rated v-springs too as these are the weak-point of the LS1.

Let me know how you get on. :)
 
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this is the one i am hoping to get
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=220417465821
i have been looking on ls1tech about them so slowly earning about them but if i get it i will change the box rebuild the other one so it can cope with the power a bit better and more power then do some other mods

Looking at the engine bay pic on this one,

The fuel delivery system has been modified. It has an after-market intake which looks like an FAST type (TB is probably not stock in that case also).
The tensioner pulley is an after-market one too (the o.e. ones can tend to throw the belt if you don't modify them by using the Aussie SC-V6 pulley wheels which have a lip to keep the belt on in those applications).
Looks like an SLP Airbox lid too.

Some of the early engines used a bit of oil because GM went too soft on the piston ring tension to try and lessen rotational friction. It caused a lot of probs. See here:-
http://www.idavette.net/hib/02ls6/page5.htm

If it's a Tremec T56 then these people are about the cheapest around for parts or even complete boxes:-
http://www.richmondgear.com/

..........You can download T56 Service Manuals in pdf from their site.

If you end up getting the car try and find the details of all the mods, esp the cam and the all-important valve-springs (the stock valve-springs are again optimised for minimum rotating friction and will get valve-float above 5,500rpm which is all they are rated for even though the stock factory engine has a 6,200rpm limiter.
Find out the casting number on the heads too if you can (just below the oil filler cap).

Keep in touch.

Steve.
 
thanks steve has had a load done to it and will have more done if i get it i wil repair the blown up box and do it up a touch but will save for a stronger one
but am having problems with my 2nd gen just welding it all up for a mot and to sell took the back bumper off to do the rear cross member and chassis leg and the thing is rotten at the back its only were water has got in and seems to be a comman place but that has set me back a few days now were i was hoping to put it for sale beofre thursday looks like it might be saturday or sunday all going on how well i get on and how free the lifts are at work
 
well good news the car is mine just have to sell my blue trans am and then i can get my new one

pics and what not to come when i pick it up
 
well good news the car is mine just have to sell my blue trans am and then i can get my new one
pics and what not to come when i pick it up

That's great!

I personally don't need pics, just a complete rundown on all the mods and exactly what they are, to get a mental picture. Then we can get ready to rumble. :)

p.s. I take it the car has had a re-tune for the cam (?)
If so, ask what software was used to do the re-map (EFI-Live, HP-Tuners or LS1-Edit, for example).
Also ensure the PCM hasn't been "locked." ...You'll need to verify this yourself as if it has been security locked, the PCM will have to be shipped to a specialist to get it "un-locked." Nobody will be able to adjust the tune in the car.
If it hasn't been locked you are okay. Any further changes you want to make to the car will just mean a touch-up & 2 minute re-flash will be straight-forward with no drama. :blink1:
 
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well when i et it will put up what it has and will copy what he has put on ebay
but am sure that he re-maped the ecu with efi live when he fitted the cam and said it comes with the programs so i can tune it up and remap it when needed so would not of thought the pcm is locked as he has mapped it him self

mods done

Modifications and Extras:
FAST 90mm Intake
UMI 90mm Throttle Body
SLP Air box lid
Stainless Steel Long Tube headers
Comp Cams XER 281 HR Camshaft
High Rise valve springs
Comp Cams rods
Double timing chain
MSD 8.5mm Red Super Conductor Plug Wires
AC Removal with Custom AC delete panel
American Racing Torque Thrust II's - Powder coated by Aerocoat
(Fronts - 17"x9" with 275x40 ZR17)
(Rears - 17"x11" with 315x35 ZR17)
Dual FAST Wide band O2 sensors with FAST Dual W|B meter (for mapping the ECU)
EFI Live software for tuning (comes with everything inc box - £400 when purchased)
UMI Strut tower brace
B&M 24k Transmission Cooler
AIR Removed (all parts included)
LS6 Valley Cover (better crank case ventilation)

The Gearbox - currently in the car - has the following:
Beast Sun Shell
Upgraded Alto Red Eagle Clutches throughout
Transgo Shift Kit
Upgraded Servos
Wide Kevlar 2/4 band
Torque Converter with 2800 stall (modified by Sussex Auto Parts)
 
Hi LM,

This is the cam here:-
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamSearchResults.aspx?sc=xer281hr&sm=By Grind Number

And the cam specs here:-
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=1093&sb=0

It's a good cam for serious power (assuming the engine is in good nick, you are looking at a good 460-475hp (if the heads are stock 241 castings).

To get the best out of this cam it needs modified heads really.

I didn't realise it was an A4 (auto).

If the EFI-Live stuff is on offer, take it, as it's worth it's weight in gold and if it's V1 (there are two types, V1 and V2) it (V1) can tune up to 22 different cars that are GM, GMC, Pontiac, Chev, Holden, HSV, Hummer. ........in fact everything that is denoted S-LS1A and S-LS1B under the column "Stream" on this website:-

http://www.holdencrazy.com/EFILive/stockTunes.php

So it's possible for the V1 to pay for itself if other people in your Car Club have LS1 or any GM, Gen 3 engine powered cars or trucks.

If you are eager to learn how to tune once you get the car all sorted just give me a shout. There are over 600 parameters you can change with this tuning software. (You'll need a half-decent laptop with a good battery performance to be able to connect up and scan, log or adjust the tune).

SS
 
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that much bhp know it was going to be good 400's going to stick it on a dyno when i get it to see what it is doing

and ya comes with the efi live and a few other bits what it is i dont know till i get it

we will be in talks when i get it
 
LS1 (5.7)

engines can make really good power. Way more than a lot of the old school engines.
The stock LS1 heads (241's) flow 230cfm @ .550-600 cam lift.
To get 100hp out of them is easy. Just cam, springs, good push-rods and a tune.
(The stock springs I have mentioned about and the stock push-rods are prone to flexing because they were made lightweight, so become marginal with after-market higher ramp-rate cams).

If you aren't seeing 370rwhp (corrected properly to J607) I'd be very surprised.
You'll be losing a bit because of the 2800 TC though.
Check what maf-sensor is on it and tell me.

Cam comparison article with the XR281HR here:-

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=-1044516358
 
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