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I have a pair of 750IL's, one black one gold. E32 shape, I quite fancy an E38 but they are still a bit above my pay grade.

I'm from Livingston and my wife is from wishaw. Been down here 10 years now. Can you think of any other useful data to include, off the top of my head I'm thinking what main fuse to use for what power of system.

I'm from Livingston and my wife is from wishaw. Been down here 10 years now. Can you think of any other useful data to include, off the top of my head I'm thinking what main fuse to use for what power of system.

I'm Scottish, I just live here. As for fibreglassing, I'm not a very practical person, that's why do it, there's no equation or formula for a perfect fibreglas install. Its all about the numbers with me, but if love to read a how to if you can make one, or a link to a good one. 5mm...

I'm Scottish, I just live here. As for fibreglassing, I'm not a very practical person, that's why do it, there's no equation or formula for a perfect fibreglas install. Its all about the numbers with me, but if love to read a how to if you can make one, or a link to a good one. 5mm...

That's a great idea, as I know it would help a few peeps, as long as they measured the core it would work. Some cables for amps have really thin core, but really thick insulation. Off topic, are you Scottish or just live there?

That's a great idea, as I know it would help a few peeps, as long as they measured the core it would work. Some cables for amps have really thin core, but really thick insulation. Off topic, are you Scottish or just live there?

I'll have a look are what bits are available for the 740 but I can understand why you went to a dealer as anything for a 7 is like rocking horse poo. Took me 4 weeks to get an oil filter for the 750 and that was from a main dealer.

an hour and half seems a long time to change a sensor and clear fault codes. It takes about 30 secs to clear fault codes (although i do charge £25 for hooking the scanner up) but the coolant sensor should have taken 30 mins tops.

although you could use a 4 channel amp, i would use 2x 2channel amps, that way each amp could have the gain set correctly for each set of speakers, a 250w rms 2 channel would be fine for the 6x9, and mabey a 300w or 400w rms 2 channel for the subs (or a monoblock, with the subs parallell - if...

Ha ha, never thought of that one one before, clock up one more reason why my car is the bestest on the planet, I got sun roof and AC!! Lol I collect these to wind up people at work who buy brand new cars, then drone on about all the great nee features it has. So far the only thing I hacn't...

Yeah I had a look at them, but they seemed more concerned with what more than how or why. They are very clear, so I will try and emulate that, but I will focus more on why a particular device is used, and how to wire it. If possible I will include the formulas for working things out, as well...

Yeah I had a look at them, but they seemed more concerned with what more than how or why. They are very clear, so I will try and emulate that, but I will focus more on why a particular device is used, and how to wire it. If possible I will include the formulas for working things out, as well...

Exactly what Paul said. If you have crossovers then why are you trying to connect them together?

The majority of car audio speakers are 8 ohm, therefore you could run 2 in parallel and the result would be 4 ohm, which would be within spec, but with an 8 and a 4 life gets interesting. Tbh though you could probably get away with parallel providing you don't Max the headinit.

And don't forget to put a fuse in, as close as possible to where you tapped the live wire, and deffo before the switch if putting a switch in. For leds a 3 amp fuse is more than enough usually.

yeah just chop a bit off if you have enough, mabey wrap some black tape around each end of your chopped off bit, just to remind you.

its possible, but an awful lot of work for very little reward. by the time you have modified the motors etc, youd be there for weeks, - if its aftermarket alarm/immob/central locking that shoukd be easy enough - if not then its most probably tied to the ecu, again possible but pointless - it...

why is this? for a BIG install I find a series/parrallel configuration best, as by mixing series and parallel you can match the impedence of the speakers to that of the driving amp - allowing you to maximise output without dropout or overdriving your amp.

would anyone be interested in a step by step guide to *wiring* a car audio system, covering headunits, screens, amps, speakers, crossovers, power caps, twin batteries , what type of wire to use, and what thickness, etc. it would be step by step, but entirely technical - i appologise but i dont...

would anyone be interested in a step by step guide to *wiring* a car audio system, covering headunits, screens, amps, speakers, crossovers, power caps, twin batteries , what type of wire to use, and what thickness, etc. it would be step by step, but entirely technical - i appologise but i dont...

if you have any spare red wire, you could use a bit of that (just remember which is which) but yeah you can pick up a bit (1 meter will be plenty) from halfords, maplin, motorworld, or anywhere like that. it needs to be at least as thick as your red wire (which looks like 8guage from the...

in series you would have 12Ohm and in parallel you would have 2.6Ohm most head units can supply between power best to a 4Ohm to 8Ohm load, although a higher load such as you would have above (in series) would still work there would be a fair bit of losses - in other words it wont be as load...

got a 10" deep black sunstrip on the black beemer, and factory toptint on the gold one. would have a sunstrip on the gold one too, but with it being gold - its hard to find one that would suit.

thats what really annnoys me at work to, having to fit expensive boot installs, £1000s of pounds worth of speakers etc, an they have crap jobs. I cant afford kit like that because i have to pay all the bills even though i work non-stop. I have spoke to a few young 'uns lately and they tell...

ebay - buy a full car with mabey a blown head gasket or something else wrong engine wise?

so is yours the red or blue? or are you a bit posh and have an anodized gold one??

as i said i was on my phone so i couldnt see pics, but it looks like your ex has used a bit of the red wire for the ground connection, as im sure you know the colours dont make any difference. your ground from the amp needs connected to either the battery negative or the vehicle body work...

not always, look at the ecotek valve (http://www.ecotekvalve.co.uk/) remember these!!! well they obviously never covered themselfs very well, check out (http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/adjudications/non_broadcast/Adjudication+Details.htm?adjudication_id=37807) The resistors mod chips on ebay...

The ground wire should be the other heavy duty wire, similar to the red one. It connects straight to the metalwork of your boot floor, pull back some trim and you may find an existing ground connection. Yes that's sounds like the fuse holder, it MUST be within a few inches of the battery, as...

Check your engine for vacuum leaks, then mabey the Maf or air flow sensor. Does your speedo still work, and is it electrical or mechanical? I have had a few cars where the adapter looms have connected the vss to gnd - that's the speed sensor - without that signal your ecu can get a bit...

The negative side usually has the big terminal, positive small terminal.

Hi again, excuse the short hand- I'm on my phone. Red: battery-fuse-amp Get the fuse as close to the battery as possible, I see cars that have gone on fire due to either no fuse or badly positioned fuse nearly every week. Black or brown: should be at least as thick as the red, this...

I agree with wayne up to a point, but again I blame government and councils. Things that set a motorist off. Speed cameras, they situate them to make money and make you late. I wouldn't care if there was a camera outside every school in the country, but do we need them in the middle of...

I think they are in the water gallery, as I'm losing water but no puddles and I'm down a few cylinders. They tend to start firing again after about 5 mins from startup.

I use redex in most of my cars, but I'm scared to use it in the BMW. I have been told that if I use it on an old worn engine I risk removing the deposits that are actually sealing the engine. Any advice on this, as the engine is 20 year old with 180k on the clock. On another note, do any of...

I have a 2 car garage at home but it has so much crap in it I can't fit the cars in, so they are on my drive. At work I park directly outside my workshop, but at uni I have to park in the street, which I really don't like! There is that unwritten rule about parking in tesco's - only park...

Its gotta be the knight industries two thousand. And there are some pretty good replicas out there. I like TV themed replicas. One of my mates had a 'trotter independent traders' van that he used at carnivals etc.

My v12 is just 20Kg heavier than the straight 6 out of an equivalent car. Suspension wise I'd say you might need to upgrade slightly, with the brakes being most important. Induction kits can vary, if you just replace your airbox with a cone filter I can foresee problems but most kits...

Think logically, using the zetec as an example then the 2.0 is actually lightern than the 1.6, the bores are actually larger therefore there less steel, therefore lighter. A lot of engine management can adapt to a certain amount of change but not always.