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build is going slow until my hand is fixed but my 6yr old nephew is helping out where he can, my rising rate fuel pressure reg is in, block has a fresh coat of red paint coz it makes it faster and mt new acl duralite .50 o/s pistons that i got off ebay for $4. YES 4 BUCKS!, i had engineer...

im bidding on a set of 4 acl duralite pistons and ring set, do you think they would be a good upgrade from stock pistons? how much would you bid on them?

finally contacted the company that made my cruise control unit, it runs off vac pressure which will become a problem when the turbo creates boost so customer service suggested i use 3-4 vac tanks, buy a (restricted purchase! not really sure how that is supposed to work) solanoid unit for $300...

i owned a nubira 2.0l inj, i loved that car, safety rating was not that good,but it had heps of grunt, always had a coat of wax, mags, big stereo, king supension, for a daily/weekend rally car it always looked show room new.

after a few days of phone calls and research i've decided how i'm going to combat my future detonation problems, i'm going to leave the dizzy stock and install a standalone individual cylinder knock control ignition system and piggy back it with a spark boosting ignition system(all plug and...

from what he was saying and what my plans are there is already X mount on the crank plus another 20-28 tonnes that i'll be adding, i know a fair bit about strengths in steels from welding and years in steel yards, and i know if i hung 28 tonnes off my crank 1 of two things will happen, the bolts...

i spoke to a mechanic today about a rolling road and a tune, bla bla bla he said for every pound of air i squeese in under boost it adds 4 metric tonnes of stress on the crank? i can smell something in the air and i don't think it's roses, is this true coz i find it really really hard to believe

he means the oil and water could escape and that's a start. did he bore out the block? you could be losing pressure from damaged valves and/or seats, bad rings, head gasket i would check all of these, my rebuild has cost me 200 aud so it's cheaper to fix than replace

i'll drop the tank today and see what i can do there in regards to installing a bigger pump, for this engine i'll keep it as a blow through (until i build the next one), cool so i should be ok with the bosch 070 pump and a rising rate fuel reg with the base set to stock and top set @ 2psi above...

i have the 2.0l mazda fe carby soon to become fe/t (turbo blow through) i have been looking at getting a rising rate fuel reg to keep pressure @2psi above my 5-7psi boost, i'll be upgrading my pump to an inline bosch 070. should i do away with the mechanical pump and just use the bosch and reg?

i noticed the a/c pump was making a squeaking noise when i turned it on plus i knew it was low on gas so i will be having look, i had a bloke come out and de-gas the system which was easy because it was completely empty. first grab your rattle gun and remove the center nut, i scewed 3 bolts...

as far as i know it's mazda, 2.0, fe with the 8v sohc, nikki is a real piece of. it's too complex and we all about vs simple, i have a twin bbl webber of a straight 6cyl that was dual fuel and has auto choke so i dare say the nikki will become an ebay job or i'll just bin it. i still need to...

PIC 5 the top and bottom are back together, grab the center from the solenoid and hang it on the rocker arm as in pic 5, place the spring back in as you can see in PIC 6, slip it over and bolt it up. make sure it bolts back up in the same direction it was before you removed it, PIC 7 all done...

hold on boys there is a sequal

yet another day of white knuckle excitement, i was unsure if my starter was going to be up to the challenge of turning a fresh motor so a strip down inspection was on the books. it's the factory starter and i needed to check the brushes were in good order and they are (good enough for a few more...

make sure the timing is correct or you could desroy all your hard work

bosh 070 i think it's called is a perfect inline pump but put it close to the tank because they push fuel better than they can suck it and another filter before it, keep your fuel pressure 2-5lb above boost pressure or it will lean out, can you post a pic of your carby box i might be building...

ever since i was a child watching bond, james bond i've been in love with aston martins, the lines and noise is pure art i wanted to know if you have a pic of your baby and how does it handle, is it easy to park, tell me the best memory you have of your pride and joy.

you can leave the original paint on providing you rough it up with fine grit paper so the primer has something to bite to, as waynne said research your paint, i give all my re-sprays 48 hours (24 hours total of hot sun) to fully cure and plan it for a warm sunny weekend if you can.

for people looking at pulling down a fe block to remove the crank. you will need to remove the box, clutch and fly wheel, behind the fly there is the crank seal, unbolt and gently remove, at the other end undo the large bolt (i used a 28v rattle gun as it will be tight) and remove the timing...

thanks turbo.

cheers boys, i hope this helps at least one person looking at doing a similar job as i'm in the deep end with this build and cant find much info on any of my mods. well i pulled my carby down for a health check tonight and i think it needs some physiotheraphy... i still cant find any info...

on closer inspection i found the crank has about 1 - 2mm of north/south movement so it was a waste of time leaving the block mounted up, anyhow the original heat proofing was ugly and torn so i steamed cleaned and re-insulated all the (hood/seat) panels, now that the crank bearings need...

my actuator in drivers door has 5 wires but only two are used (has been soldered) and i cant work out where they go, indicators work, door triggers work but i cant get them to move can anyone explain where they need to be thanks

ive sat on 112 miles and it won't keep you as sharp as coming over a blind crest straight into a 90 degree left hander at 40mph

lol the lad is probly upset his thread was hijacked

is that the stretch were they test supercars?

it's been an interesting build. i have found so far, small pits in all the piston heads but head is clean, a small spring and wire in the sump, 12 valve pistons in an 8 valve engine, material missing from the oil journal hole in the rod bearings, damaged intake valve shaft and broken guide and...

do you want it to go faster or handle better

pull it down, get the cylinders done 20 or 40 oversize , replace internals with better quality forged ones not cast, not too aggressive on the cam stage or it will idle rough, stainless gasket of get the block o-ringed, fit and plumb turbo, maybe a stronger clutch and tranny to keep the power...

maquarie pass, this road goes from sea level up into the mountains, really fast turns at the bottom and big sweeping bends at the top. it's a really fun road at night

yes i do skim ebay alot looking for that one piece to match the rest, addicted to spending

not bad, i've always had a soft spot for a good look'n supra

nice project mate

the best bang for your buck would be stage1 or 2 cam and or forced induction, turbo or supercharger is not that hard to do. i got an amr 500 (small supercharger off a 1.6) for 400 ozzie bucks delivered and changed to smaller pulley for more boost, i made the brackets bolted it on, plumbed the...

cheers guys, this might just be my new home.

ok people this is my first ground up build i have a 91 ford econovan/mazda b2000 got off a mate it has petol and gas fitted, engine is a 2.0L carby fed FE that will become a force fet FE/T with a little toyota ct9, i already had this and being off a 1.8L it should boost eary for towing power...

i have a pos van and i'm in the first stages of rebuilding and modding to use as a daily/toy/camper/party bus, be sure to follow my highs and lows as i go and don't be shy give me hints, corrections and suggestions if i do or say something stupid :confused:.