Do you wait for the redline, change at a fixed rev point in each gear or have different rev point for the change at each gear? Is this the same for NASP and Turbod engines? I thought about getting a shift light but Im not sure if they are any good.
Gearchanging advice needed.
- Thread starter obi_waynne
- Start date
fingers
Torque Master
- Points
- 72
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- North Essex
The best time to change gear depends on when the power of your engine peaks. Ideally you need to go just past your peak power and then shift. this will put your rpm so it is just cming back into its peak. Take my car for example. My bhp peaks at 4500 rpm, so I usually shift a about 5000 rpm to go into the next gear at about 3500-4000rpm.
Its similar with Turbos. You need to make sure that when you change up the Turbo will still be boosting some larger turbos will not fully spool up until you hit 3000 rpm so there is even a case for keeping a foot on the accelerator to keep it cooking. Its pretty pointless to redline as power tails off as you approach the redline in most cars so as Fingers says aim to stay in the peak power band all the way.
We were discussing that it is best to keep the engine speed (revs) near the peak power band when changing gear. In most cars this is 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm. So when you hit 5000 rpm you change up a gear and this makes sure that you start the next gear at 3000 rpm.
Could be any number of things from the clutch to the driveshafts. It's difficult to tell. With the engine ticking over in Neutral (no gear) does the noise change when you depress and lift the clutch?
err, upon looking: vibration in a manual gearbox could be a lack of oil, or worn bearings, is it a violent shake or a vibration? and does it happen when acceleration? if so the driveshaft may have a worn inner velocity joint or or a bent or distorted driveshaft.
if its your clutch: if theres a judder when engaged it could be that the clutch linings are contaminated with oil or grease or are excessively worn your clutch cable may be sticking or frayed, a faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring worn or loos gearbox mountings clutch disc hub or gearbox input shaft plines worn.
that help :wink:
if its your clutch: if theres a judder when engaged it could be that the clutch linings are contaminated with oil or grease or are excessively worn your clutch cable may be sticking or frayed, a faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring worn or loos gearbox mountings clutch disc hub or gearbox input shaft plines worn.
that help :wink:
judder feels like your driving over stones like a constant bumping, or when your in too high a gear for the speed your doing.
constant velocity joits are at the end of the driveshaft and cancel out the noise, usually oil filled and seald these play a vital part in the driving of your car. i.e. it keeps things smooth
and driveshaft is a solid steel(ish) pole that comes from your gearbox (transmission) to the wheels, which makes them spin around.
constant velocity joits are at the end of the driveshaft and cancel out the noise, usually oil filled and seald these play a vital part in the driving of your car. i.e. it keeps things smooth
and driveshaft is a solid steel(ish) pole that comes from your gearbox (transmission) to the wheels, which makes them spin around.
I have a problem with shifting and i don't know if i don't know how to shift correctly or is something wrong with my car.
When i shift from 1st to 2nd gear in gets into 0. Well, i shift into 2nd and than when i release clutch, gear falls into 0 (i shift at 5800rpm).
But if i shift at 5400rpm, i don't have that problems. If i shift from 3rd to 4th or from 4th to 5th at 5800rpm there is no problem too!
Any ideas?
When i shift from 1st to 2nd gear in gets into 0. Well, i shift into 2nd and than when i release clutch, gear falls into 0 (i shift at 5800rpm).
But if i shift at 5400rpm, i don't have that problems. If i shift from 3rd to 4th or from 4th to 5th at 5800rpm there is no problem too!
Any ideas?
pgarner
TC ModFather
i take it with "0" you mean neutral
guy at work has a similer problem when he changes into 5th it often jumps back out he found that the bushes in the mount are worn (heavily its basically metal on metal now).
other than that i think your gearbox is Knackered (broken sorry didnt see you were from slovina)
guy at work has a similer problem when he changes into 5th it often jumps back out he found that the bushes in the mount are worn (heavily its basically metal on metal now).
other than that i think your gearbox is Knackered (broken sorry didnt see you were from slovina)
pgarner
TC ModFather
what u driving the now
i think you said in another post u were driving a laguna, are you sure the gearboxes are interchangeable?????????? think the quattro may give you problems as it is 4 wheel drive and may you will need to change the rear axle to take the drive as well as get a prop shaft to transfer the power
another idea would be to get the 'box off the front wheel drive variants, as this will solve the prob of the 4wd
think you would be better with another 'box from renault range, but first get the car to a decent mechanic and see if s/he can diagnosed the problem might be something simple ( looking at your original post it seems to be only 2nd gear, it may only be worn )
i think you said in another post u were driving a laguna, are you sure the gearboxes are interchangeable?????????? think the quattro may give you problems as it is 4 wheel drive and may you will need to change the rear axle to take the drive as well as get a prop shaft to transfer the power
another idea would be to get the 'box off the front wheel drive variants, as this will solve the prob of the 4wd
think you would be better with another 'box from renault range, but first get the car to a decent mechanic and see if s/he can diagnosed the problem might be something simple ( looking at your original post it seems to be only 2nd gear, it may only be worn )
I think he was talking about getting a new car, not just a gearbox. 
pgarner
TC ModFather
waynne said:I think he was talking about getting a new car, not just a gearbox.
yeah re-reading it makes more sense
Pixel
Road Burner
I dont know a lot about cars but what usually work for me, varies with the engine. If you have a petrol then generally you can take it to about 85% of the revs, anymore than that and your probably better off just changing gear. With a diesel turbo, you change the when the turbo is gone which is generally around 70%.
pgarner said:waynne said:I think he was talking about getting a new car, not just a gearbox.
yeah re-reading it makes more sense
Yes, I was talking about getting a new car. Well, I thing it would be better that i change the car ( not a gearbox - if it is broken - because laguna isn't sports car
). If I'll buy a new car: -4wd: better grip
-rwd: it is probably lighter, but have smaller grip
I think, that audi tt would be a good decision, but I don't konw which version should I get? TT is FWD and quattro, so it's better to take quattro, right?
pgarner said:waynne said:I think he was talking about getting a new car, not just a gearbox.
yeah re-reading it makes more sense
Yes, I was talking about getting a new car. Well, I thing it would be better that i change the car ( not a gearbox - if it is broken - because laguna isn't sports car
). If I'll buy a new car: -4wd: better grip
-rwd: it is probably lighter, but have smaller grip
I think, that audi tt would be a good decision, but I don't know which version should I get? TT is FWD and quattro, so it's better to take quattro, right?
I'm sorry, if it's a little bit off topic.
pgarner
TC ModFather
if your going to be dragging it def go for the quattro to get the grip off the line
your options for that come down to 1.8 t (225bhp) , think the 1.8t (180bhp) may have it as well, or the 3.2 V6 (240 bhp)
may also be worth looking at the DSG gearbox as it will shift faster than you can it way save you a few tenths
sorry a thought you were doing some mad convertion on the laguna
your options for that come down to 1.8 t (225bhp) , think the 1.8t (180bhp) may have it as well, or the 3.2 V6 (240 bhp)
may also be worth looking at the DSG gearbox as it will shift faster than you can it way save you a few tenths
sorry a thought you were doing some mad convertion on the laguna
The quattro TT is a good car. It corner well and it is very reliable. Get anything with the 1.8T engine and get it remapped. The 225 bhp is the best but you can get to this with a remap on the standard engine and a few other tweaks.
pgarner
TC ModFather
ive heard of it producing over 300 horse using direct to head thottle bodies (no forced induction) think theres also twin supercharge kits avalible for them, i know theyre avalible for the 2.9 engines
it depends on how much you want to spend the 1.8 can be taken over 300 easy for around £1500 think thats about E2300 (sorry this keyoard doesnt have a euro key)
where as the 3.2 will need slightly more money spent on it if your wanting silly power
also would depend on how much you wanna spend on petrol the 1.8 will give you a lot better economy when your not booting it as the turbos not on boost where as the 3.2 will be using all 6 cylinders all the tiime
it depends on how much you want to spend the 1.8 can be taken over 300 easy for around £1500 think thats about E2300 (sorry this keyoard doesnt have a euro key)
where as the 3.2 will need slightly more money spent on it if your wanting silly power
also would depend on how much you wanna spend on petrol the 1.8 will give you a lot better economy when your not booting it as the turbos not on boost where as the 3.2 will be using all 6 cylinders all the tiime
Parts costs do vary a lot from country to country. A remap and swap of a used or reconditioned turbo from an Audi TT 225 would cost less and you'd still get a respecatable power figure at the end say 270bhp.
Good idea. Some people were smart that if I replace turbo (from 225HP TT), I had to change all electronics. But that's not logical. We know that these are practically the same engines. Why should I replace that? They are lying, right?
By the way: How much should I pay for reconditionig used turbo from TT (225HP edition)?
By the way: How much should I pay for reconditionig used turbo from TT (225HP edition)?
Without a remap there is not much to be gained other than having more power at the top end. With a remap you get the full benefit. There are no electronics connected to the turbo, its just the wastegate and airflow meter which can generally cope with more throughput.
Prices will vary a lot, firstly ask the local breakers yards. Turbo specialists such as AUT can offer prices on hybrid rebuilt turbos.
Prices will vary a lot, firstly ask the local breakers yards. Turbo specialists such as AUT can offer prices on hybrid rebuilt turbos.
pgarner
TC ModFather
i had a quick look on ebay a couple of months ago there were K04 turbos going for £400 simply because owners of the S3 and TT(225) were upgrading their turbos
from what i could find through mags on the 1.8t engine is that if upgrading to around 300 bhp is to get the airflow meter, injectors and intake manifold from the S3 to get the best results (can also use the ones off the 225 TT). thats without paying some high prices for the aftermarket ones
from what i could find through mags on the 1.8t engine is that if upgrading to around 300 bhp is to get the airflow meter, injectors and intake manifold from the S3 to get the best results (can also use the ones off the 225 TT). thats without paying some high prices for the aftermarket ones
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Sound like a plan to me PG Might even look into that setup for myself. Its just convincing the wife that will be hard to do.
Its just convincing the wife that will be hard to do.
pgarner
TC ModFather
well just dont tell her, you could do the airlfow yourself
the rest just book it into a local garage to get the manifold and injectors done in a day shes working
the rest just book it into a local garage to get the manifold and injectors done in a day shes working
Bolting on a manifold and injectors is pretty easy to diy, Fitting the turbo can be awkward as there is not much space to work in. How do I explain away the 100% extra power?
pgarner
TC ModFather
Super Unleaded ?????????
or claim Audi found a problem with the engine and its now been fixed
take it your now admin as well as the waynne (torque king)
or claim Audi found a problem with the engine and its now been fixed
take it your now admin as well as the waynne (torque king)
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I was talking about car's main electronics (alternator and so on).
You got 1.8t???? Is it good engine (repairing...)? Is original main shaft able to endure 300HP? Should I replace it with stronger one?
pgarner
TC ModFather
things off the main engine will not need changing alternator power steering etc like waynne said the airflow meter and MAP sensor ( manifold pressure ) will need uprating along with the injectors dont know about the 180 - 225 engine but the 150 engine is supposed to be maxxed out at 200 bhp ( according to certain tuners but they dont say anything about the more powerful versions, like ive said in tuning mags ive seen the the injectors from 225 have no problems with 300 bhp )
ive got the 180 engine and have looked into doing it up 1 tuning company says that they can take it up to 270bhp without problems after that the clutch will struggle with the power
jbs do turbo kits for the 1.8 engine there basic kit starts at £1775 with power at 300bhp going up to experimental kits that will give over 600bhp, to show this theyve fitted it to a skoda VRS and its producing 602bhp and506ft lb
JSB ONLINE
ive got the 180 engine and have looked into doing it up 1 tuning company says that they can take it up to 270bhp without problems after that the clutch will struggle with the power
jbs do turbo kits for the 1.8 engine there basic kit starts at £1775 with power at 300bhp going up to experimental kits that will give over 600bhp, to show this theyve fitted it to a skoda VRS and its producing 602bhp and506ft lb
JSB ONLINE
pgarner
TC ModFather
ok the £1775 kit isnt on the website but its in Preformance VW mag the largest price on the web is over £11k but for that its pretty much a new engine that your getting as a rebore to 1900cc is included
prob shouldnt do this here is the full list
JBS30 Turbo (Hybrid GT3071WG)
JBS Custom Equal Length Stainless Steel Manifold
JBS Developed Front Mount Intercooler
JBS Developed 3" Downpipe and Exhaust System
JBS Spec Stage 3+ Clutch Kit
JBS Con-Rods - Rifle Drilled and Balanced
JBS Custom-Fit 1900cc Pistons
Re-Bore to 1900cc
Supertech Inconel Valves
Quaife ATB Differential (With Lifetime Guarantee)
Coolant Run-On Pump
RC High Impedance 550cc Injectors
3" MAF
3" Cold Air Intake System
4 BAR Fuel Pump and Fuel Pressure Regulator
Head Skim and Check
All Bolts, Seals and Gaskets Needed
Labour
Custom-Code Phase Three
£11650 inc VAT
telephone
+44 1246455005 to see what they could do for you
only prob is being based in UK (derbyshire) it may mean a long trip for you
prob shouldnt do this here is the full list
JBS30 Turbo (Hybrid GT3071WG)
JBS Custom Equal Length Stainless Steel Manifold
JBS Developed Front Mount Intercooler
JBS Developed 3" Downpipe and Exhaust System
JBS Spec Stage 3+ Clutch Kit
JBS Con-Rods - Rifle Drilled and Balanced
JBS Custom-Fit 1900cc Pistons
Re-Bore to 1900cc
Supertech Inconel Valves
Quaife ATB Differential (With Lifetime Guarantee)
Coolant Run-On Pump
RC High Impedance 550cc Injectors
3" MAF
3" Cold Air Intake System
4 BAR Fuel Pump and Fuel Pressure Regulator
Head Skim and Check
All Bolts, Seals and Gaskets Needed
Labour
Custom-Code Phase Three
£11650 inc VAT
telephone
+44 1246455005 to see what they could do for you
only prob is being based in UK (derbyshire) it may mean a long trip for you
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Thanks awfully! This side rulz!
Well, it looks that 1.8t is really the best engine for tuning (cheap upgrades). Probably there will be a trip in nearly future Do you know any good pizzeria and hotel near this tuner?
And this kit would give you .....HP? What do you think?
By the way: me and some high educated electritians are thinking about upgrading engine torque with electromotor. Only 0,8kW electromotor can give you 15Nm!!! Sounds nice.
Well, it looks that 1.8t is really the best engine for tuning (cheap upgrades). Probably there will be a trip in nearly future
Do you know any good pizzeria and hotel near this tuner?And this kit would give you .....HP? What do you think?
By the way: me and some high educated electritians are thinking about upgrading engine torque with electromotor. Only 0,8kW electromotor can give you 15Nm!!! Sounds nice.
pgarner
TC ModFather
[QUOTE="mitchman]Well, it looks that 1.8t is really the best engine for tuning (cheap upgrades). Probably there will be a trip in nearly future Do you know any good pizzeria and hotel near this tuner?
[/QUOTE]
sorry mate couldnt tell you a live around 500mile (800km) away from there
as for the hp youd need to speak to them themselfs other i can think about are AMD Technik,
your prob closer to Germany why not try there for tuners as thats where the engines really from they might be able to give you prices without having to come over here for a week or two (and enjoy the rain or -9 degress that were gettin just now )
[/QUOTE]
sorry mate couldnt tell you a live around 500mile (800km) away from there
as for the hp youd need to speak to them themselfs other i can think about are AMD Technik,
your prob closer to Germany why not try there for tuners as thats where the engines really from they might be able to give you prices without having to come over here for a week or two (and enjoy the rain or -9 degress that were gettin just now )
Well, I heard for tuner (in slovenia) that can tune 1.8t to 450-500HP. I had to visit him(I will report).
Oh, there is snowy and -12 degress. Perfect for drift. I fell scandinavian
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