build is going slow until my hand is fixed but my 6yr old nephew is helping out where he can, my rising rate fuel pressure reg is in, block has a fresh coat of red paint coz it makes it faster and mt new acl duralite .50 o/s pistons that i got off ebay for $4. YES 4 BUCKS!, i had engineer...
im bidding on a set of 4 acl duralite pistons and ring set, do you think they would be a good upgrade from stock pistons? how much would you bid on them?
finally contacted the company that made my cruise control unit, it runs off vac pressure which will become a problem when the turbo creates boost so customer service suggested i use 3-4 vac tanks, buy a (restricted purchase! not really sure how that is supposed to work) solanoid unit for $300...
i owned a nubira 2.0l inj, i loved that car, safety rating was not that good,but it had heps of grunt, always had a coat of wax, mags, big stereo, king supension, for a daily/weekend rally car it always looked show room new.
after a few days of phone calls and research i've decided how i'm going to combat my future detonation problems, i'm going to leave the dizzy stock and install a standalone individual cylinder knock control ignition system and piggy back it with a spark boosting ignition system(all plug and...
from what he was saying and what my plans are there is already X mount on the crank plus another 20-28 tonnes that i'll be adding, i know a fair bit about strengths in steels from welding and years in steel yards, and i know if i hung 28 tonnes off my crank 1 of two things will happen, the bolts...
i spoke to a mechanic today about a rolling road and a tune, bla bla bla he said for every pound of air i squeese in under boost it adds 4 metric tonnes of stress on the crank?
i can smell something in the air and i don't think it's roses, is this true coz i find it really really hard to believe
he means the oil and water could escape and that's a start.
did he bore out the block?
you could be losing pressure from damaged valves and/or seats, bad rings, head gasket
i would check all of these, my rebuild has cost me 200 aud so it's cheaper to fix than replace
i'll drop the tank today and see what i can do there in regards to installing a bigger pump, for this engine i'll keep it as a blow through (until i build the next one), cool so i should be ok with the bosch 070 pump and a rising rate fuel reg with the base set to stock and top set @ 2psi above...
i have the 2.0l mazda fe carby soon to become fe/t (turbo blow through)
i have been looking at getting a rising rate fuel reg to keep pressure @2psi above my 5-7psi boost, i'll be upgrading my pump to an inline bosch 070. should i do away with the mechanical pump and just use the bosch and reg?
i noticed the a/c pump was making a squeaking noise when i turned it on plus i knew it was low on gas so i will be having look, i had a bloke come out and de-gas the system which was easy because it was completely empty.
first grab your rattle gun and remove the center nut, i scewed 3 bolts...
as far as i know it's mazda, 2.0, fe with the 8v sohc, nikki is a real piece of.
it's too complex and we all about vs simple, i have a twin bbl webber of a straight 6cyl that was dual fuel and has auto choke so i dare say the nikki will become an ebay job or i'll just bin it.
i still need to...
PIC 5 the top and bottom are back together, grab the center from the solenoid and hang it on the rocker arm as in pic 5, place the spring back in as you can see in PIC 6, slip it over and bolt it up. make sure it bolts back up in the same direction it was before you removed it, PIC 7 all done...
yet another day of white knuckle excitement, i was unsure if my starter was going to be up to the challenge of turning a fresh motor so a strip down inspection was on the books. it's the factory starter and i needed to check the brushes were in good order and they are (good enough for a few more...