"The Next One" - Handcrafted Mid-Engine Sports Car

I really appreciate everyone's enthusiasm on my Rhythm fabrication thread. That really shows the passion you guys have for not only your projects underway in your garages but as well as other members' rides. Thanks very much.

I had mentioned that I wanted to share a new project vehicle that was in progress. Like the first vehicle build, it's something that both my dad and I are involved with...I wouldn't have it any other way.

The Idea

Rhythm was in the final stages of assembly and as crazy as it sounds in the back of my mind I found myself already tossing around the idea of creating a second mid-engine vehicle. However, taking into account what had been learned over the course of the building Rhythm, I decided that if and when this new project began, fabrication would have to be approached from an entirely different perspective.

You may have previously seen that Rhythm’s body was essentially hammered and dollied out entirely by hand. While this sounds impressive and taught me how sheet metal behaves, it was immensely time consuming – not something I wanted to repeat. So an English wheel would have to be bought or built to help in creating the panels. I decided to build one. Also, with the next one, a fixture would have to be developed to not only provide a base for shaping the body panels, but to also ensure higher fabrication tolerances. These fixtures are usually referred to as bucks and can be created many ways including carving a full-scale shape out of foam or building a wooden buck. To meet our requirements we decided to create a wire frame buck. This buck would provide the flexibility to alter particular aspects of the design features relatively easily if it was ever necessary. To ensure that the buck was always square and remained true during the sheet metal shaping process an extremely rigid frame table was necessary. I dislike doing things over again, so the frame table was designed and built in such a way that it was fully adjustable in all 3 planes and to not only work for this project but for others as well.

Design Overview

Starting out as a fresh sheet of paper design, ‘the next one’ loosely resembles Rhythm. Simply called R2, the lines have been re-proportioned and tightened up resulting in a modern aggressive appearance. Since it’s being built as a driver, we want a final fit and finish that only a metal body can provide. An LS6/LS7 engine mated to a Porsche G50 transmission called for a redesign of the chassis for increased rigidity as well. Rolling on 275/35/R18s in the front & 315/30/R19s rear R2 is 28” shorter, 6” narrower, and a little over 900lbs lighter for a total weight of about 2800lbs. The final horsepower to weight ratio is expected to come in around 6lb/HP.

Here are the specifics:
R2SpecSheet2.jpg


Creating the Wire Frame Buck

Once R2’s final design was established and renderings completed 2-dimensional construction drawings were created. These were then taken to a print shop and scaled to full size side, top, front & rear views and posted on our shop’s ‘build board’. Then the exciting part began. To create the wire frame buck, the wheelbase, engine/transmission, seating position, and front windscreen locations were set using sliding jigs on the frame table based on design dimensions from a common datum point. Construction of the wire frame buck began by simultaneously working with four drawings and translating reference dimensions from the ‘build board’ into 3D and 'stump shaping' steel rods, square-stock, and flarbar to match the appropriate feature curves.

Initial 20 minute mockup... I grabbed some parts from storage to get an idea of the new proportions. Ahh.. no worries, those won't be the final wheels... :D
INVR2-BodyFabrication02-1.jpg


We're into the thick of it with the fabrication of the wire frame buck. The various lengths of box tubing were fabricated to slide along the frame table, then lock into place at set positions. Other lengths were tacked to them.
INVR2-BodyFabrication012.jpg


To make room for another job, R2 is rolled out of the bay and covered up. At this point, with most of the wire frame completed, the tarp actually created a temporary surface on the buck and outlined some of the body lines.
R2-UnderWraps12.jpg


Just to clarify, the wire frame is a temporary structure. Once all the inner & outer panels have been created it will be removed and all the panels re-assembled on their own.

__________________
Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

Some projects: http://www.facebook.com/iNVisionPrototypes
 
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What an awesom project!,cant wait to see the finished car!,a big thankyou for sharing it with us i hope everything else runs smoothly.

Thanks Gummy! Things are moving along quite well and it's my pleasure to share the progress with the gang here. This forum really has a great group!! :D:D
 
would the fiberglass not give you more flex than plaster as well?

getting harder to get 2 pack paints over here. some can get hold of them easy enough but other body shops wont touch the stuff, hell some dont even like working with the cellulose paints.
 
would the fiberglass not give you more flex than plaster as well?

getting harder to get 2 pack paints over here. some can get hold of them easy enough but other body shops wont touch the stuff, hell some dont even like working with the cellulose paints.

Hey pgarner, You're right about fiberglass having more flex. I always like to experiment with various forms of fabrication...and have had decent success using plaster as a mold for automotive panels in the past. Also, at times, a customer's budget makes one think outside the box for a cost effective solution.
 
Hi everyone! I hope your New Year is off to a great start! :D

Here are some photos of my first attempt at making molds. Started off with a small interior piece...the armrest... to practice the technique.

So here it goes...after several applications of mold release wax were applied, resin and fiberglass matting were laid down building a composite skin.
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Thoroughly wetting out the matting is the key to a quality part...at least that's what they say.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3072.jpg


After the resin cured it was time to remove the plug.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3082.jpg


With a little prying along the edge with putty knives the mold successfully popped off the plug ...at least when it came to the mold. The plug will be thrown out since it's not required anymore. Now just need to clean up the edges of the mold a little.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3092.jpg


Thanks for checking out the build!
__________________
Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

Some projects: http://www.facebook.com/iNVisionPrototypes
 
Hi Guys! Here's the next little installment. All the surfaces were buffed followed by 3-4 coats of High Temperature Mold Release.

Driver's door was done next after the arm rest to practice my technique for cutting, laying and wetting out the matting on a slightly larger scale. Once I got the hang of the process I moved onto the rest of the interior.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3132.jpg


Started prepping the remaining interior was by cutting and laying out the chopped mat for the molds.
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Built a dispenser for the roll of chopped mat.
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Three layers of matting laid and wetted out. It was pretty cool to see the colour of the Sharpie bleed though all the layers of resin.
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Excess material trimmed from the perimeter. The process of removing the molds from the plugs has started. We only have one shot at this... And even though the plugs would be scrapped after - I was determined to pop the mold off without destroying the plug. Unfortunately, i slid the putty knife a bit further than necessary and ended up breaking the passenger door plug. Lets see if I have better luck with the other door.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3162.jpg


Success!!! After some careful prying, the mold came off with a pop and didn't damage the plug.
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Dash plug and mold removed from the vehicle to make it easier separating the mold from the plug.
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After a few minutes of 'playing', the mold successfully popped off !
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Rear wall and tunnel resin done curing and ready to be pulled after the perimeter edges have been trimmed
INVR2-BodyFabrication3212.jpg


Trimming off the excess matting/resin from around the perimeter.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3222.jpg


Plugs pulled and interior all cleaned up... Looks strange being bare again.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3232.jpg


Thanks for following along this segment of non-metal work.

__________________
Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

Some projects: http://www.facebook.com/iNVisionPrototypes
 
Hi guys! Well, after a little hiatus into the world of composite panel fabrication, it's time to get back into some metal work. Isn't that what we're all here for anyway, right? :blink1:

The last time we left off, I was in the process of shaping the exterior pieces/panels. The time has now come to start joining those pieces together creating body sub assemblies.

Work begins to weld up the front fascia. While it's a tedious process, this is where things start to shape up...no pun intended. :D
INVR2-BodyFabrication2222.jpg


Grinding down the weld proud.
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Time to flip things over. Prepping and tacking the pieces together for the bottom front fascia. Final welds will be about 2" at a time with no less than 30 welds.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2262.jpg


I don't rush the process. Once the panel is welded it's allowed to cool down until I can touch any area by hand. Then the grinding begins.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2272.jpg


First pass of grinding down the weld's pride.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2282.jpg


Second pass...
INVR2-BodyFabrication2292.jpg
 
My brother-in-law dropped by the shop while I was working on the front sub assembly and wanted to help out. Prior to this he never shaped metal nor welded before. It was a perfect opportunity for him to jump in with both feet and fabricate the fascia's bottom corners. After showing him how to use the Shrinker/Stretcher and English Wheel I set him up with some cardboard to create a template. He then transposed this to a piece of sheet metal and started shaping it to the appropriate curve.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2332.jpg


Passenger side panel done and used as a comparison for the D/S piece as it take shape.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2342.jpg


Then the real fun began. He was to weld these pieces into the corner areas. He scribed the pieces, trimmed them and carefully tacked them into place.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2362.jpg


INVR2-BodyFabrication2352.jpg


Steve grinds down the tacks in preparation to planish them.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2372.jpg


INVR2-BodyFabrication2382.jpg


While planishing, Steve learned how to control the sheet metal around the tack to create a seamless butt joint. His next task was to weld up the joint...not too bad for his first time.
smile.gif
Good penetration...just that pride was a bit high...meaning more time and material(grinding disks) to clean it up.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2392.jpg


Unfortunately, we didn't get any photos of the bottom fascia ground and finished up. Will try to remember to get a shot next time I'm working on the car.

Thanks very much for following along. :D
__________________
Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

Some projects: http://www.facebook.com/iNVisionPrototypes
 
The beginnings of a new...hood. Yeap...you read that correctly. I didn't like the features on the first one so we're redoing it. After the fresh sheet metal pieces were cut out based on original templates, a little more 'bump' was rolled into them with the wheel.

INVR2-BodyFabrication3282_zps33786347.jpg


INVR2-BodyFabrication3292_zpsbe0d7925.jpg


Once the overall curvature was established in the main area a reverse curve was created using one of the sharper lower anvil and carefully rolling the trough's edges until the panel started to relax upwards
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With the pieces formed… fitting begins.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3342_zpsfc50da55.jpg


Slowly starting to look like a hood. Condensation is a strange thing…soon as we opened the shop doors that particular afternoon a small patch of surface rust appeared on the centre panel. No worries as the DA will take care of that.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3332_zps3f4f6f67.jpg


A little tuck shrinking to deal with the flange’s excess length. The metal will actually get hammered into itself.
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Almost there…a little more work and we’ll have a nice smooth curve.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3322_zpsddf2d5cf.jpg


Side flanges bent and pieces finally fit to each other. Next step… tacking!
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INVR2-BodyFabrication3362_zps445501aa.jpg


Panels lined up and ready for welding.
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During the tacking process panels are constantly tweaked in order to ensure a nice smooth curvature.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3365_zps2ef16b67.jpg
 
continuing on...

With each tack the hood is getting to sound…right. After the tacks have been completed and hood cools off grinding can begin.
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First pass at grinding the welds.
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After some more grinding out comes the flat file to reveal the highs and lows. However minor these areas may be they need to be addressed.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3368_zps1f3d727a.jpg


Working with the hammers, spoons and dollies... highs and lows are normalized until you get a smooth consistent surface.
INVR2-BodyFabrication3367_zps6d015477.jpg


Thanks for looking.
smile.gif

__________________
Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

Some projects: http://www.facebook.com/iNVisionPrototypes
 
how long does it take you to make something like the bonnet from scratch like that?

If the buck - either wooden web structure or wire frame shape(which you can see in the photos) - has been completed ... the skin for the bonnet takes about 6-7hours from cutting out the flat sheets to final finish. The sub structure(part that hinges/latches bolt to and skin gets wrapped around takes another 8. So a total of about 15hours for a complete hood. Then there may be a few more hours for final tweaks to get it fitting correctly to the body. I've been tossing around in my head whether or not to add vents on either side of the centre section to promote more airflow through the rad or keep it clean. Those additional features will obviously take a few more hours longer.

The biggest thing when doing something like this is plan everything out at the onset of making the part... how many pieces it will take, sizing the sections, how it will be wheeled, where it'll be welded and finally planishing it for a relaxed feel. Wheeling it correctly is the biggest factor to getting the part right... it can't really be corrected too much once it has been welded.

A little long winded, but I hope this answers your question.
 
Curiosity is killing me, funny you should mention the vents, been wondering what my skyline would look like with vents in centre section of the hood...
 
Curiosity is killing me, funny you should mention the vents, been wondering what my skyline would look like with vents in centre section of the hood...

Simple solution buddy! Get out the angle grinder with a 1/16" zip blade and chop chop... :lol::lol::lol:

OR.. go get some masking tape... lay it out, stand back 25 feet and take a look if it's only for curiosity's sake. :lol:
 
Good idea thanks mate, I figured it would look nice and help vent a bit of the heat from the engine. I want the vents on the sides of the raised bit in the middle of the hood. Thinking to just paint the cut out bits[ which would actually be fairly narrow ] or line it with polished aluminium, decisions decisions. Wish I had a decent software program and actually new how to use it properly.
 
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Hi everyone!

Here's another installment on R2's build journey. With the hood skin more or less finished, it was time to re-create the front moisture trough. I wasn't happy with the way the sides looked the first time I made them.. too narrow.
INVR2-BodyFabrication202.jpg


On the second version, you'll see that it has more continuity. With only a few tacks and self-drilling/
self-tapping screws holding the front compartment surround together it's taken out and work begins to make things a little more permanent.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2542_zps1276d491.jpg


Working the area towards an invisible butt joint.
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Where strength is required joints are overlapped and plug-welded.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2562_zps765d8dea.jpg


Can never seem to have enough clamps. Need to ensure panels are mated with no gaps for a uniform weld distribution.
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All done and ready to be installed later...
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Thanks for checking out the progress. :bigsmile:​
 
Some work done on the front inner fenders...

While they were mounted inside the buck witness marks were created and self drilling-self tapping screws used to temporary fasten the two pieces together.
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Exterior piece gets a reveal created for additional strength as well as a seat for the the inner piece to sit in.
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Some additional trimming and hammer/dollie work along the edges was required for a nice tight fit.
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Assembled, welded and cleaned up with a flap disk...the piece is ready to be reinstalled.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2622_zps1a5a4fad.jpg

__________________
Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

Some projects: http://www.facebook.com/iNVisionPrototypes
 
Hi Nick, don't know how I've overlooked this up until now. Part of my job is sheet metal fabrication and fitment for insulation covering purposes (rolled casing, boxes, radius bends, square-to-rounds, cones etc etc) and this is far more skilful and beyond what we do so just wanted to say outstanding work from someone who has appreciation of the basic concepts!
 
while searching around thread, i'm stuck with your project, needs 3 hours for me to read and understanding your job step, i can't imagine what she will be, very awesome handcrafted job, well done man, what's next is the big question, again, and again...have to see every day to check and see what your progress..thanks for sharing nick
 
... needs 3 hours for me to read and understanding your job step, i can't imagine what she will be, very awesome handcrafted job, well done man, what's next is the big question, again, and again...

Thanks for taking the time to read this build thread nighttfury. When visualizing the finished product...think low and sexy. After the project is done, all this work will never be seen. The only thing most people will see is the finished paint.

Here's some more...finishing up the front fenders.
INVR2-BodyFabrication1732.jpg


The two pieces were fit and tacked together earlier on the buck. Now it's time to complete the joint.
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Grinding off the proud... taking it slow so as not to build up too much heat.
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Very close to an invisible joint. After going over the area with a file followed by a DA loaded with 80grit only few small flaws remain. These will still require a few more minutes to planish and clean up.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2712_zps838703a8.jpg

Thanks for looking. :)

__________________
Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

Some projects: http://www.facebook.com/iNVisionPrototypes
 
Ooohh the plot thickens, I really like the way you designed the arches, I'm loving it already, eager to see the rear design now.Can't wait. Looking stunning so far.
 
Thanks Hugo.

Thing is, after studying the fenders for a while, I pulled out the hammers and dollies to move the metal around changing the fascia's design including how those arches finish at the front. I simply wasn't happy with how they looked. That's one of the reasons...when you guys ask to see a finished sketch...I don't have one. Building is more of an emotional thing for me.
 
Thanks buddy sort of Obi Waynne's fault,lol. I'm actually glad there is no end scetch, this way it's a lot more exciting and mistery filled, makes you look forward to it a lot more, not worried bout how the arch ends, just love how high up on the fender the arch lip is sitting, looks great, that's the bit I like so much.
 
The exterior skin is only as good as the structure used to support it. Working on the inner rockers that will basically connect the front and rear of the vehicle together.

After the box section were bent holes were created for plug welds.
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As the pieces are being welded together the flanges are tapped down ensuring a tight fit.
INVR2-BodyFabrication2652_zps3bcc2479.jpg


...a good peak of an an arc flash.
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Have a great day everyone! :D

__________________
Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

Some projects: http://www.facebook.com/iNVisionPrototypes
 
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