project plans!

LPMorgan

Road Burner
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20
Location
leicester, england
Car
none at the moment
this is for a future project. car is a Nissan Primera p11GT, project ideas are : lowering, 17in rims, better brakes and calipers, painted calipers, full exhaust system, exhaust manifold, cold air intake, fast road cams, lighter flywheel, short shifter, full interior re-trim, anti sway bars, custom body kit, window tints, headlights, wing mirrors etc, the list is many and i'm hoping to get this project underway as soon as possible and 90% will be done myself. colours are undecided same with rims. lol
 
this is for a future project. car is a Nissan Primera p11GT, project ideas are : lowering, 17in rims, better brakes and calipers, painted calipers, full exhaust system, exhaust manifold, cold air intake, fast road cams, lighter flywheel, short shifter, full interior re-trim, anti sway bars, custom body kit, window tints, headlights, wing mirrors etc, the list is many and i'm hoping to get this project underway as soon as possible and 90% will be done myself. colours are undecided same with rims. lol

I would forget the body kit and window tints mate. Way too chavvy in this day and age for my liking. Don't buy aftermarket headlights as they are utter rubbish. If you buy M3 style wing mirrors I will also ban you lol. Forget colour when buying (unless it's pink), buy on condition. I didn't like red when I bought mine, but now I love it!

You might find uprated ARBs too stiff for road use, but saying that I would get poly bushes as well with a decent set of coilovers.

Each to their own at the end of the day though and you like then who really gives a monkeys.
 
the tints will be so the kids can watch dvd's when it's sunny as i'll be putting monitors in the headrests lol and it won't be a chavvy body kit lol it will be subtle, when i mentioned colour i meant when i have it resprayed and i was thinking about using headlights from a different nissan lol i hate m3 mirrors lol
 
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I agree with Prince be careful with changing the ARB's (anti roll bars) they could take away what made the car so good on the road in the first place.

Before buying callipers, may I recommend trying a set of braided brake lines, some fresh brake fluid & some good pads & discs? The uprated lines will firm up the feeling at the brake pedal & will make the system a little more efficient. :D

Any luck on finding a P11 yet?
 
no luck getting one yet but it's always better to plan ahead, i was reading that it's possible to use r33 brakes with a little modification, and the ARB's are to make the engine bay look good and to give stiffer handling as i will be taking this to occasional track days lol
 
Nothing wrong with enthusiam but.........

r33 brakes ????????

Thats blown the £500 budget cos just the fronts will cost you that

You cant see the ARBs (anti roll bar) they are under the car -Think you might mean a strut brace ?
 
the tints will be so the kids can watch dvd's when it's sunny as i'll be putting monitors in the headrests lol and it won't be a chavvy body kit lol it will be subtle, when i mentioned colour i meant when i have it resprayed and i was thinking about using headlights from a different nissan lol i hate m3 mirrors lol

Good. I didn't want to have to ban you for that lol. Imo looks wise, a decent set of rims and a good drop does wonders. Add a front splitter and job done. OEM+ is the way to go.

going to use wing mirrors from a honda ek civic (i think it's ek) lol, gonna go for some 6 spoke 17in rims with a 30-35mm drop.

EK mirrors won't fit or look right. They're on a Civic because they match the lines of that car. Tbh I think it'll look stupid. Stick with OEM mirrors or mirrors made for the car.

Nothing wrong with enthusiam but.........

r33 brakes ????????

Thats blown the £500 budget cos just the fronts will cost you that

You cant see the ARBs (anti roll bar) they are under the car -Think you might mean a strut brace ?

This.

Don't budget when it comes to brakes. At the end of the day they will save your life. Get the best you can afford (same applies to tyres as well).

surely you can pick r33 at a breakers yard lol and yeah strut braces lol

Have you thought about a lower cross brace as well? That'll tighten things up nicely. Myself and T9 will vouch for this.
 
£500-£750 is the budget for the car lol not for the whole project lol what does a cross brace actually do?

It's basically a lower front strut brace. Does the same job as a normal strut brace but the 'X' design is stronger (and therefore reduces flex more) than a single point to point brace.

Here's mine:
IMG_7538640x480.jpg


IMG_7543640x480.jpg
 
so what if you were to use a top mount brace as well as a cross brace?

Should really tighten up the front as chassis flex will be reduced. The upper strut brace also helps to support the strut from the top. It will never make a massive difference on it's own, but combined with the right setup should see improvements.

It's why I like to start with suspension because even a low powered car can be fun if you've got the setup right.
 
so put upper and lower strut braces on 1st, what is the lowest i can go before you can't take passengers or shopping? i was thinking a 30-35mm drop on some H&R springs? maybe with some KONI dampers?
 
so put upper and lower strut braces on 1st, what is the lowest i can go before you can't take passengers or shopping? i was thinking a 30-35mm drop on some H&R springs? maybe with some KONI dampers?

There isn't really a set height unfortunately mate. It's a case of trial and error. It also depends on how stiff your setup is. I have quite a stiff setup but my rear can't take too much (front will usually be stiffer than rear). Instead of thinking about an exact measurement. Lower it until you're happy with it. Get your arches rolled for extra wheel clearance and avoid low offset wheels (in your case - not in general) as they'll sit further outwards and therefore more likely to rub.

I would go with a full coilover setup. Decent sets do cost but completely worth it (I paid £800 for mine). You'll need a 4-wheel alignment done once all is fitted. You'll really see the benefit of these when you're out on track, not to mention you can always adjust it for track and then re-adjust it for daily driving.

I would order things something like...

- Coilovers and poly bushes
- Rims and tyres
- Upper and lower front strut braces
- Rear strut brace (for high speed stability)
- Exhaust (this may or may not include a s/s manifold)
- Brakes (do any painting at this point as well)
- Intake
- Flywheel/clutch
- Short shift
- Interior

Obviously that isn't an exact order as parts may become available at good prices meaning you get them when you can. I would probably get a pair of bucket seats from a Skyline as well.
 
i like the 'line seats. i'll just do a drop of 30mm that should be enough on 17's yeah? thinking about flaring the arches a little anyway plus a front splitter will give it a bit of a sportier look IMO, this is some great advice, want the car to sound and go as good as it will look.
 
i like the 'line seats. i'll just do a drop of 30mm that should be enough on 17's yeah? thinking about flaring the arches a little anyway plus a front splitter will give it a bit of a sportier look IMO, this is some great advice, want the car to sound and go as good as it will look.

You won't know if 30mm is low enough until you do it. I 100% think you should go with coilovers. The adjustability is well worth it, even if you just get it right and leave it.

Here's my Civic that was lowered 110mm on 17s. You could get even a finger between the tyre and the arch or barely your foot under the side skirt but it didn't scrape.

DSCF0416.jpg


My E36 isn't that low as I don't want to sacrifice driveability this time around. I'm also doing things better this time and I'm happier for it. This is around 60mm (possiibly a little bit more) but can't say for sure as it was already on lowering springs when I bought it. I can also say the handling is better on coilovers vs springs.

E36_098.jpg


You also have to remember that all makes and models are different so some can be slammed without a problem, others will lose the sump on the first speed bump.

Be very careful when flaring arches as the paint can crack.
 
it will be having a full respray anyway eventually, how drivable is the civic? i know "mera's are pretty low anyway, i'd go for coilovers but i've read that they are too stiff for normal road use and i have no interest going over 40mm anyway.
 
it will be having a full respray anyway eventually, how drivable is the civic? i know "mera's are pretty low anyway, i'd go for coilovers but i've read that they are too stiff for normal road use and i have no interest going over 40mm anyway.

It was driveable as there wasn't anything that hangs low from the bottom. The exhaust was probably the lowest point. I just had to slow right down for speed bumps (I'm talking 1mph lol). The E36 is a much better car to drive for not being slammed.

Coilovers are not too stiff for daily use. Different brands will feel different. I had Spax on the Civic and they are designed for 'fast road' use. My HSDs on the E36 are more track orientated.

As I said above don't think about a specific measurement yet. When you get the car and start playing around it won't matter what measurement it is as you'll 'just do it' until it's right. At no point have I decided on a certain drop as it doesn't really work like that. Even if you buy 30mm lowering springs it won't drop by 30mm as the springs will settle anyway (up to 10mm).

A few members on here don't like coilovers (herb springs to mind) but a lot of us are running them on road cars and we all love them.

I know springs are tempting at the price (I'd rather have good springs over cheap coilovers) but if you want to use the car on track then (good) coilovers all the way imo.
 
the tints will be so the kids can watch dvd's when it's sunny as i'll be putting monitors in the headrests lol

Actually a mate of my done this recently in a Ford Galaxy, he could not handle their moaning about not being able to see the screen properly :blink:
Kids today are so spoilt ;)

Love the concept so far of what you are trying to achieve, I do agree with Prince about the bodykit and I am glad that you will be adopting the subtle approach ;)
 
i'd like to take it to a track but it's going to do many more miles as a family car, i've looked into both spring and damper sets and coilovers, i'll be getting poly bushes anyway, would i be better getting wheels and front lower lip 1st?
 
£500-£750 is the budget for the car lol not for the whole project lol what does a cross brace actually do?

You wont find skylines ( especially GTRs) as normal breakers because the parts are worth so much. This is mainly because standard 33 parts are upgrades for most other Nissans such as all the s14s etcs

With a budget of 3750 you need to be realistic. That wont allow for a great deal of mods.
You are better off using the money to make the car safe and as said before brakes are a must and they will make you much faster round a track as well.

Best mods for a £750 track car.
Forget the strut brace and pretty rims on a car with your budget you are unlikely to notice the difference. There are more important things (IMHO)

Get a car with a sensible chassis then decent brakes ,tyres and suspension first . Then if there is money left a strut/crfross brace may be worth looking at.

but I have a feeling that the above will take you past £750 no problem.


You cant have a 2k list of mods with a 1K budget
 
sleeper think you need to keep up lol i have not set a budget yet, i have only set a budget for the car purchase lol i'm doing it subtle so it will still turn heads, it won't be crazy loud either, only gonna fit a backbox with a 2,5-3inch pipe lol but all depends on what i want when i get there. lol that's why it's going to be a long and open project lol
 
i'd like to take it to a track but it's going to do many more miles as a family car, i've looked into both spring and damper sets and coilovers, i'll be getting poly bushes anyway, would i be better getting wheels and front lower lip 1st?

I would do them all the same time if funds allow.

You wont find skylines ( especially GTRs) as normal breakers because the parts are worth so much. This is mainly because standard 33 parts are upgrades for most other Nissans such as all the s14s etcs

With a budget of 3750 you need to be realistic. That wont allow for a great deal of mods.
You are better off using the money to make the car safe and as said before brakes are a must and they will make you much faster round a track as well.

Best mods for a £750 track car.
Forget the strut brace and pretty rims on a car with your budget you are unlikely to notice the difference. There are more important things (IMHO)

Get a car with a sensible chassis then decent brakes ,tyres and suspension first . Then if there is money left a strut/crfross brace may be worth looking at.

but I have a feeling that the above will take you past £750 no problem.


You cant have a 2k list of mods with a 1K budget

Let's be honest though, not one of us ever stick to our budgets! :lol:
 
what are opinions on boot spoilers as the standard one looks too bulky? but i think it would silly to have front lip and flared arches without a spoiler. what could be done?
 
what are opinions on boot spoilers as the standard one looks too bulky? but i think it would silly to have front lip and flared arches without a spoiler. what could be done?

It's FWD isn't it? In that case it's pointless. Flared wheel arches keep subtle and the front lip won't effect how the back looks. Spoiler-less imo, or a small lip spoiler.
 
oh cheers can't view ebay as my phone is poo lol cheers mate, i've seen some but they are by a company called BC? they are racing coilovers though. for £595
 

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