Dodge Avenger Tuning

"Thank you for reading my Dodge Avenger tuning guide."

Tuning the Dodge Avenger and best Avenger performance parts.

We look at Avenger tuning and summarize the optimum modifications. Dodge Avengers are popular cars and with a few sensible performance mods you can substantially increase your driving experience.

The Avenger is a good car tuning project to play with. We see many people wasting money on their Avenger doing the wrong mods and then having to start over. Follow our guides to avoid ruining your car

Tuning tips and articles

Engine tuning Transmission tuning Care care Intake & exhaust mods Improve handling Forums

Many Avenger owners uprate the handling of their cars as a priority, this will certainly increase your enjoyment of the car. Drop the car optimally somewhere in the region of 45mm and fit stiffer dampers, bigger drops will need other modifications in most instances.

Adding a strut brace to the front, and some negative camber and toe out to the front will sharpen up the handling. Poly bushes are a good upgrade for worn rubber suspension bushings.

Our aim in Avenger engine tuning should be to increase peak power and Torque at the top end.

Avenger make good sleepers if you debadge them and fit the most powerful engine upgrades and handling upgrades you can!

Smaller engines do not provide much of a return in terms of power so start with a bigger engine. Engine swaps are a good option if you have a small engine size.

Power mods.

These mods are usually performed by our members, decide how far you want to push your car before you begin.

Getting the best mods for your planned usage of the car is a time and money saver. Stage 3 motorsport mods just don't work well on the road hard to control in slow traffic.

Please watch our video which covers the 5 principles of tuning your car. Be sure to keep up with our latest YouTube content and subscribe.

Best Engine Mods for your car

  1. Engine Tunes - engine tuning/remapping provides the most advantage in terms of cost savings,  aftermarket ECUs, and piggyback ECUs are all alternatives.
  2. Fast road cams are one of the most significant mechanical changes, but they must be installed by someone who knows what they're doing and they are not always easy to source but you might find a local firm to regrind a stock camshaft.
  3. Intake and Exhaust - Note that on their own these mods will NOT ADD POWER in most cases, but they can help enhance power after other mods by removing the restriction.
  4. Upgrades to turbochargers and superchargers - forced induction is the most efficient approach to increase air supply, allowing you to burn more fuel and make more power. It is one of the most costly upgrades but provides the best gains.
  5. Head work - The goals of porting and flowing the head are to get air flowing into the engine while removing flow restrictions and turbulence.
  6. Typical stage 1 mods often include:
    Sports exhaust,Panel air filter,Remap,Suspension upgrade (drop 30-45mm),Lighter flywheel,Alloy wheels.

    Typical stage 2 mods often include:
    Ported and polished head,Fuel injector & fuel pump upgrades,Power clutch,Fast road cam,.

    Typical stage 3 mods often include:
    Internal engine upgrades (pistons/head/valves),Engine balancing,Competition cam,Sports gearbox,Adding or upgrading forced induction (turbo/supercharger).

    Peak power is good on competition cars but for a driveable and fun car you need a wide torque band and perhaps extending the rev range. In this article we shall give a little insight into the world to the best mods for your car, but we'd encourage you to spend some time on the site looking into the details of each type of performance part.

    Fast road cams offer one of the biggest performance gains for your money as far as a single performance modification goes on a NA (naturally aspirated) engine.

    It maximizes the intake and exhaust durations and pushes up the power if done right.

    Ideally you'd add other mods and finish up with a remap. TorqueCars would caution you not to go with a motor sports profile cam as this upsets the engines idling and general town driving characteristics.Don't forget to uprate the fuelling when you are increasing the power - it makes the car more thirsty.

    Most power losses, and erratic idling after modifications are done can usually be traced to fuel delivery or timing issues.

    Uprated injectors will enable you to supply sufficient fuel to the engine. If have increased your fuelling with bigger injectors you will also need to get a bigger fuel pump to supply it.

    Intake and Exhaust Tuning.

    The next area for modification is the intake and exhaust. Contrary to popular belief there is generally very little power gain to be had by fitting an induction kit, they only work well and are recommended after you increase the engines power to the point where the standard air intake box cannot cope!

    For most Avenger engines TorqueCars would suggest you just go with a washable panel air filter. On heavily tuned engines and turbo vehicles an induction kit will help release the power providing you address the problem of needing cold air.

    Sports exhausts can usually air flow from the engine but do not go too big or you might just stuff your flow rate and make things worse. So generally speaking, keep to a size of 1.5 to around 2.5 inches to maximise flow rates, and this should take into account the amount of air your engine is moving.

    Head work including a gas flow and 3 or 5 angle valve job will really help to release the potential of the engine.

    Your clutch can seriously let you down if it starts to suffer and the standard clutches are only ever good for power gains of up to 50%.

    Fit a performance clutch to avoid power loss through the transmission. Turbo engines are just asking to be remapped. You will see significant power gains on most modern turbo charged cars including diesels making a tune/remap one of the most cost effective and significant modifications for your money.

    We've also seen some tuners experimenting with twin charging conversions and making some very high power gains.

    Despite the large cost involved adding forced induction to a NA (naturally aspirated) engine will give large power gains.

    It is usually cheaper to bolt on a supercharger than it is to install a turbo. Turbos provide boost in increasing proportion to increasing engine speed and this can make mapping difficult.

    It is simpler to map a supercharger because the boost is proportional to engine speed on a linear curve. To cope with forced induction you will usually need to decrease the engine compression ratio .

    Alloy wheel upgrades.

    Alloy wheels can help the brake cooling and are generally lighter than steel ones. Large Avenger alloys can decrease performance. If you get big alloys you will be changing your final drive ratio. Although some people have with bigger wheels without problems we would stick to a 16 inch rim size as the maximum.

    If you would like to know more, or just get some friendly advice on Tuning your car please join us in our friendly forum where you can discuss Avenger options in more detail with our Avenger owners. It would also be worth reading our unbiased Dodge tuning articles to get a full grasp of the benefits and drawbacks of each modification.

    Please help us improve these tips by sending us your feedback in the comments box below. We love hearing about our website visitors projects, especially the mods done and which work best for you on your car. Which helps us keep our guides and tips up to date helping others with their modified car projects. Your feedback and comments are used to keep this page up to date, and help improve the accuracy of these articles which are kept updated and constantly revised.

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    2 Responses to “Tuning the Dodge Avenger”

    1. Ernesto Fernandez says:

      Thank u guys ,all your info is invaluable

    2. Samuel V Chiacchio says:

      *UPGRADE TO PRO SUSPENSION*
      I have Black 2013 Aveng. 3,6, I changed Struts, control arms, sway bar,(car front still bottoms), Brakes & Tires at 35,000 and again 65,000 again. 4th set of pads. The front is way too heavy, a high-speed turn feels barely holding, feels unsafe, like I’m on the Side Walls of Wheels. I didn’t use the BEST PART.

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