Audi A4 B6 98-05 Tuning

"The Complete tuning and Mod Guide to the A4 B6"

The A4 B6 was car of the year and loved by motoring journalists. It went to show that you could have a family size car that provided a good driver experience. Sharing much of its platform with the Passat and the A3 the A4 B6 has much to offer but does it all with a more sporty and luxurious flair.

As far as tuning the A4 B6 goes we would shy away from the modest engine sizes. To get the most from the chassis you really need to get an engine with 130bhp or more. Thankfully the turbo diesels fit the bill nicely with some suitable modifications.

 

 

See our video which covers all the principles of Audi A4 Tuning, it contains some tips on turbo swaps and covers performance and handling.

We would go for the 1.8T, the 2.0Fsi the 2.5 and 3.0 engines and the 1.9 TDi 130 and 2.5 TDi (avoid the 100ps version unless you are desperate for the economy.

Anything less than 130bhp would seem sluggish on such a wide heavy platform; the later TFSi engines are good alternatives, and the 170TDi is a true performance jewel; nevertheless, it may be difficult to live with if you only travel short distances due to the temperamental DPF.

Let's have a look at the modifications available for your A4 B6 tuning project.

The A4 B6 is a logical option for families while yet providing an enjoyable drive.

Revisions to the A4 platform over the years with links to our tuning guides for each.

• B5 (Typ 8D; 1994–2001)
• B6 (Typ 8E/8H; 2000–2006)
• B7 (Typ 8E/8H; 2004–2009)
• B8 (Typ 8K; 2008–2016)
• B9 (Typ 8W; 2016–)

The most significant power improvements occur with bigger engine sizes. The more you start with, the greater the return on investment, which is why engine swaps are a cost-effective modification for small engined vehicles.

Think about weight reduction also, as the table below shows, this mod can be equivalent to quite a large power hike, and it improves handling and braking.

Quarter mile times after tuning the A4

We are assuming a 1610kgs kerb weight, & Manual transmission with Quattro over 200hp.

Base power	Quarter Mile	Tuned to	Kerb Weight	Quarter Mile
118hp	18.96	130hp	1610kg	18.38
168hp	16.91	205hp	1610kg	15.86
225hp	15.39	240hp	1610kg	15.07
328hp	13.63	*735hp	1610kg	10.98
		*635hp	1400kg	10.99

Looking at the stats and performance figures, the 118hp A4 takes 19 seconds to run a quarter mile, typical improvements to the engine power will drop this to 18.38 seconds.

Power figures of 250hp or more need to be put through the Quattro or rear wheel drive or the traction issues will make the car undrivable.

Let's review the A4 B6 engine specs

A4 B6 Gasolene

• 1.6 102 PS (75 kW; 101 bhp)
• 1.8 Turbo 20v 150 PS (110 kW; 148 bhp)
• 1.8 Turbo 20v 163 PS (120 kW; 161 bhp)
• 1.8 Turbo 20v 'S line' 163 PS (120 kW; 161 bhp)
• 1.8 Turbo 20v 'S line' 190 PS (140 kW; 187 bhp)
• 2.0 20v ALT 131 PS (96 kW; 129 bhp)
• 2.0 FSI 150 PS (110 kW; 148 bhp)
• 2.4 30v BDV 170 PS (125 kW; 168 bhp)
• 3.0 30v 220 PS (162 kW; 217 bhp)
• S4 4.2 40v 344 PS (253 kW; 339 bhp)

A4 B6 Diesel

• 1.9 TDI 100 PS (74 kW; 99 bhp)
• 1.9 TDI 115 PS (85 kW; 113 bhp)
• 1.9 TDI 133 PS (98 kW; 131 bhp)
• 2.5 V6 TDI 24v 155 PS (114 kW; 153 bhp)
• 2.5 V6 TDI 24v 163 PS (120 kW; 161 bhp)
• 2.5 V6 TDI 24v 180 PS (132 kW; 178 bhp)

We have some specific engine tuning guides that go into more detail on power and performance mods....

• 1.4 1.5 TFSi tuning
• 1.4 TSi/TFSi/Twincharge tuning
• 1.8T engine Tuning
• 1.8 & 2.0 TFSi (mk1) Tuning
• 1.8 2.0 TFSi (ea888) Tuning
• 2.0 TFSi carbon issue & care guide
• 2.5tfsi tuning
• 3.0 V6 24v TFSI Tuning
• 2.8 V6 30 valve, 24 valve 3.0 V6 30v and 3.2 VR6 Tuning
• 3.6 VR6 Tuning
• 1.6 TDi tuning
• 1.9 TDi tuning
• 2.0 TDI 140-170 tuning
• 2.0 TDI tuning (EA188)
• 2.5 TDI tuning
• 2.7 & 3.0 TDI tuning
• 2.5 Tdi R5
• 3.0 Tdi EA897

A4 B6 Tuning modifications.

These mods are usually installed by our members, decide how far you wish to go in your tuning project before you get started.

Obtaining the appropriate customised components for your intended use of the vehicle saves both time and money. Stage 3 motor sport components just do not perform effectively on the road, making driving the vehicle tough.

Best A4 B6 mods and tuning upgrades

• Suspension upgrades - coilovers & fix the suspension bushings. coilovers and replacing worn bushings and attending to the suspension mounts with a strut brace help improve your A4 B6s handling.
• Brake upgrades - Don't just focus on making it go faster, you need to be able to stop it.
• Remapping (especially on the turbos)
• Turbo upgrades engine tuning/remapping provides the most advantage in terms of the outlay.
• Upgrades to turbochargers and superchargers - forced induction is the most efficient approach to increase air supply, allowing you to burn more fuel and make more power. It is one of the most costly upgrades but provides the best gains.
• Lighter flyweel - on most models you'll appreciate the faster rev speed changes. But keep the DMF on the diesel engines.

A4 B6 Tuning Stages

Typical stage 1 mods often include: Suspension upgrade (drop 21mm - 39 mm.), Panel air filter, Alloy wheels, Sports exhaust, Engine Tunes/Remapping, Lighter flywheel.

Typical stage 2 mods often include: Power/Sport clutch, Ported and polished head, Fast road cam, high flow fuel injector, fuel pump upgrades.

Typical stage 3 mods often include: Sports gearbox, Internal engine upgrades (pistons/head/valves), Adding or upgrading forced induction (turbo/supercharger), Engine balancing, Competition cam.

While peak power is desirable, a daily driver's automobile requires a broad power band and maybe an extended rpm range.

Let's take a closer look at them in further depth; in the meanwhile, please watch our video on the finest automobile tweaks to optimize your tuning investment.

A4 B6 Suspension Mods.

On the track, quick cornering is critical, and suspension plays a role. Because the track is forgiving and well maintained, you may employ more drastic suspension settings and lower the vehicle to improve aerodynamics and center of gravity.

As the A4 B6 ages, the rubber suspension bushings fail, causing squeaks, rattles, and bumps, and the suspension becomes less taut and slops around like a raccoon in a trash can.

Therefore, your first step should be to improve the fundamental setup, and replacing rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings is an excellent suggestion.

Thus, what variables and elements must you consider while setting up and selecting the suspension for your everyday driver?

When engineers build a vehicle's suspension, they must take into account speed bumps, uneven terrain, passenger comfort, and road noise.

The majority of factory-built cars, A4 B6 included have relatively soft comfortable suspensions that degrade handling and driving enjoyment. Because track vehicles are configured for driver preference and style, the best configuration is not only subjective but also dependent on the circuit's attributes.

A good suspension system maintains the tires' proper angle on the road for maximum contact area. Body roll must be kept at a minimum, and the center of gravity of the vehicle must be kept low. TorqueCars recommends a 30mm drop for A4's with S line suspension and 40mm for those running on stock springs.

Common A4 Suspension Mistakes & Urban Myths.

• Don't buy a non-adjustable suspension package that lowers the car 30mm and assume it will work.
• Most kits are very generic, and many of them say that they can be used on any or many types of cars.
  Is it true that the same suspension may be used for all A4 B6 models regardless of their engine, wheel, or weight? (No for example the diesel engines are pretty heavy and the newer 1.4 Turbos are very light).
• Angles that aren't right for the drive shaft and gearbox could cause them to deteriorate which will be altered by a suspension drop.
• Changing the ride height also changes how the suspension moves when it's under a lot of stress, which can cause scrubbing on the arches and premature tyre wear!
• Another bad idea is to buy reduced springs and use standard dampers, or to buy more dampers and use standard springs. Because the whole suspension system should be looked at, this is how it should be looked at:

Be careful with going too low on your A4.

Cars that are slammed to the ground seem to be more attractive. But you lose ground clearance, your tires rub against the wheel arches, and speed bumps become significant barriers that are impossible to get over. The sump of a lowered car will be hit by speed bumps, which will rip off a large part of the engine and the front skirt. Lower doesn't always mean better, and it doesn't always have to be that way.

For most A4 road cars, TorqueCars says that you should drop your car about 40mm. For cars with upgraded suspension, they say that you should drop your car about 30mm (sporty versions which already have lower suspension).

When the car is on regular suspension and has 17" rims, these tolerances may be a lot lower. But lowering the car could cause a lot of problems.

When you lower your car, it rolls less, has a lower centre of gravity and less air moves under the car keeping it stable.

Always make sure your lower springs and shocks are matched sets. Also you shouldn't cut the springs because they were made to a fairly tight tolerance and cut springs will generally shatter or shear.

Ideally, you should acquire a suspension package that can be simply and easily adjusted on your A4 to suit your driving style so adjustable kits fit the bill nicely.

A good set of well made coilovers will help, by allowing you to adjust them to suit your driving style. Koni, Bilstein Eibach and KW make some pretty good A4 kits.

A4 B6 Brake upgrade mods

Bigger brake discs come to mind, but don't forget about the pads. These are actually more important than the discs, and bad pads can end up making your A4 B6's braking terrible.

If you want to be able to stop quickly, you have to have decent brakes. This is how a brake works: A friction pad is pressed against the disc, converting kinetic energy to heat. This heat dissipates, slowing down the car's forward speed.

There really is a lot of heat buildup in the brakes when you do a lot of braking. This is seen in night time motorsports, where the brakes glow with heat after a lot of use and getting rid of this heat is critical to an effective braking system.

Having a vent in the middle of a disc makes it easier and faster for the disc to cool down.

Drilled discs help keep the pads "clean and sharp" by increasing the air ratio and preventing gas from building up between the pad and the disc, which helps keep the pads "sharp." The bigger the discs, the better the cooling, but they may require a different alloy wheel in order to get it to fit.

Materials for the A4 brake pads

It doesn't matter if the high friction brake pads make noise and dust on the track but on a road car this will become a frustrating annoyance.

Also a high friction compound is used to make racing pads, and it works best when the temperature is high.

It's not good to use race-grade brake pads on the road when braking is done on cold pads or in short bursts. They only work when they're very hot and will be quite noisy when cold.

This is what TorqueCars thinks about brake pads from Pagid and Black Diamond. They think they're a good balance between stopping power and wear and I will always fit these to my Audi.

Please leave the brake upgrade mods on your A4work to a trained mechanic if you don't know what you're doing.

Cheap ways to upgrade your A4 brakes

If your A4 is a basic lower powered one, you can easily and cheaply buy the parts you need from a more powerful model in the same family of cars the RS and S series make good swaps. Also many Porsche and other Audi model brakes will fit and be almost a straight swap.

Trying to figure out what parts lower spec lower power A4's have in common with the sports variants cars can help you find cheap upgrade options.

There are a lot of hubs that can be used on cars from different manufacturers, so the brakes from different cars can be used together think SEAT, Skoda, VW and Audi as a case in point.

Remapping the A4 B6.

Manufacturers have developed timing maps that have a lot of headroom to cope with temperature changes, small mechanical problems through poor maintenance, and bad weather. Some countries have different goals for CO2, HC, and NOx emissions, so they have to use a "fudged" method when setting up the ECU.

There is a lot of room for things to go wrong with cars, so manufacturers make sure there is a lot of leeway to keep the car reliable.

The performance of each A4 engine can change by 20bhp depending on how well the parts are machined and put together. Instead of looking at each car and making a unique timing map, they use a one-size-fits-all approach which leaves scope for you the end user to improve things considerably.

Car makers use tunes or remaps to make different power versions of the same engine, which lowers insurance rates and improves fuel economy again making it possible to push a 140hp model to exceed the higher spec 170hp version just through a software update.

Add to that the fact that most people who read TorqueCars will be upgrading with high quality performance parts and will properly maintain their A4, making a strong case for a remap.

Remaps are also recommended for all modern turbocharged engines, which can add 20-30% more power.

Remapping the A4 - Problems and Drawbacks Hidden costs: What are they?

When you buy a car, you'll have to service it more often, sometimes cutting the service interval in half. In this case, you must be ready to replace parts that break because of the extra work they are doing because of the map's setting which pushes everything harder.

Most of the time, it takes a while for the weak points in an engine to show up after a map. You can look at our tune/remap troubleshooting guide for help.

Most of the time, problems with the turbocharger and the clutch will show up after the car has been remapped.

A4 Turbocharged engine care

Also, a tune/remap often adds more boost to the engine at lower rpms, which makes the turbo run faster and hotter.

In this case, you need to let the turbo cool down before you turn off the motor, or the oil could degrade to sludge and will need to be changed, which could cost a lot of money in repairs if ignored.

Be very wary of peak power claims from remappers.

Please don't compare maps based on peak power because some tuners have been known to make a power blip or spike to get attention and get the headline power figures.

Here's a graph that shows what we mean.

Power is going up to 200hp on the red line but this is restricted to one narrow area, but power is down everywhere else. The green line, on the other hand, keeps going up through the whole RPM range - which would you rather have? Yes we thought so. Bragging rights on peak power is one thing, but a proven performance run on a track is what matter.

It also shows peak power at 4000rpm, which is great for an engine that reaches 7000rpm. This gives you a good spread of extra power where you need it the most.

Instead, pay attention to the total torque curve. Having more power at the bottom of the rpm range means that the turbo and other parts don't get to cool down and this accelerates wear on the turbo and you get excessive wheelspin.

So a tuner that understands the A4 will take these into account and make sure you have a usable map.

We want to see a smooth rise in torque all the way through the rpm range, with no sudden peaks, dips or troughs.

Turbo modifications and upgrades for your A4 B6

Big turbos make more power, but they also wear out the engine and make the car hot. An engine with a turbocharger may run at 1100°C and 100,000-150,000rpm when it is running.

Some turbo configurations and new cars can go twice as fast as before. They need lubrication, cooling, and balance at these high speeds. Its most common problems are oil seal failure, clogs, and worn out parts.

You can improve your turbo in two ways: turbo is a hybrid that runs on both electricity and gas (based on your OEM casing but with internals from another turbo or with a different design)

Install a bigger turbo, which will require more pipes and work to do. The first option just replaces the old one. To get the most out of it, you'll need to tune/remap your car. Most hybrid turbos will work fine on regular maps at lower boost settings.

The shape of the air intake, the compressor wheel, and the shape of the turbine are looked at. Spin faster, compress air, or boost at high or low RPMs based on your needs.

When you drive a car on the road, you need a lot of low-down power. A smaller turbo gives you a more even torque curve with less lag.

A hybrid turbo will also have better bearings, better balancing, and better seals, so it will be even more powerful. Dependability and boost can be increased by lowering RPM.

A Guide to Turbochargers by VAG

Many different turbocharged engines are out there. We'll look at some of the most popular turbos from the VAG group, as well as what makes them different and which are the best ways to improve them.

Even though the turbo's safe power limits can be ignored, the turbo's life will be cut short!

Turbo limits - safe should retain factory reliability and longevity, the Max however is pushing to the limits and will certainly shorten the lifespan of the turbo.

Turbo	Safe Limits	Maximum
K03	190hp	220hp
K03s	215hp	250hp
K04	220hp	350hp

Before the turbo finally breaks, you will usually hear a whining or siren sound and then see smoke coming out of the engine.

It's time to look for something else. An engine that has a bad turbo could do a lot of damage when the compressor doesn't work and it ends up in the engine.

K03, K03s, and K04 compared:

A comparison is made between two things. The K03 turbo was on the market from 1996 to 2000. The K03 turbo was replaced by the K03 turbo.

The different types of power plants With the 1.8T AGU engines, the K03 turbos are used, and they work well. Smaller injectors are used in these engines, which have a MAF sensor and a cable-operated throttle, as well as a MAF sensor.

It is used on AUM engines with MAF and MAP sensors to use K03 K03 turbos, which are used. It's because these engines have better drive-by-wire throttles that make them more efficient and faster. Stigan and BorgWarner are two of the most well-known manufacturers of K03, K03s, and K04 turbos, and they both make them.

The KO3 and the KO3s are different animals.

The number of blades is the most important difference between the different turbos. The K03 has 11 blades, but the K03s has only 8 blades.

The actuator that opens the turbine bypass valve is different for each turbo. It can range from 65N to 85N, but some variants had a two-port actuator.

Because 180-horsepower engines have more boost pressure, they often use actuators that are better made and have more force when they open making these a good upgrade option on higher power builds from a lower spec base.

Increasing the compressor on the side that takes in air  usually increases power. This is a common method used by many manufacturers.

As long as you do everything right, your K03 can get up to 190 horsepower with the right mods and upgrades.

However, the turbo's life will be cut short the closer you get to the safe limits and the more you push it hard.

The K03s is more powerful than its brother, the K03. The safest amount of power with K03s is around 215 bhp; any more, and turbo life is at risk.

You can get up to 250 horsepower from this turbo, but expect it to last a lot shorter than it would if you used a different turbo.

K03s have more power than K03s by at least 25 bhp. If you're willing to compromise turbo life or do more maintenance, you can get even more.

K04 has a big advantage over K03.

The K04, compared to the K03 and K03s, is a lot bigger and does make more power and still spools up quite quickly.

In order to boost the K04's performance, you need the right hardware. The safe maximum for the KO4 is 220 horsepower more than this is possible but turbo life will be reduced.

There were two sizes of turbo:

K03 and K03s, which were smaller than the K04. While the K03s power output was a little less than the K04's, the amount of space needed for its installation was a lot less than that of the K04.

Is there a good reason to get a new A4 turbo?

Many people choose to change or improve the turbochargers in their cars for the following reasons: Turbocharger upgrades are one of the best ways to improve a car's performance and one of the most important.

Turbos need to be replaced from time to time because they wear out. Turbos that are more recent make use of newer technology and give car owners more options for adding extras.

In the aftermarket part supplies out there, we see a lot of fake and low-quality turbo units, so it's important to look at your source carefully and avoid buying twice because your bought cheap.

We can say for sure that if you go with a cheap turbo or low quality reconditioned unit you'll have to do the job again in six months.

You should choose a turbo that sports the following:

• An aluminium compressor wheel that is made of billet aluminium is on the market now (light and strong)
• There are a lot of vanes and the size of these is larger than your stock one (Maximizes the boost available)
• There is a performance actuator that moves the wastegate (sharpens throttle response and maximizes your power gains)

Every little thing that you do can make or break a project, so pay attention to what you do and what you don't. After adding a turbo, you must tune/remap your car.

Changing the factory turbo with a more powerful aftermarket one often requires that the car's software be updated. Error codes will be thrown if this isn't done. If the engine runs lean or goes into "limp home mode," this will cause them to be thrown.

To replace the original turbos, you need to buy new turbos This is what you can do when you have to change your factory turbo. There are new replacements for K03.

Keep in mind that inline and transversely mounted engines have different turbo designs, so don't mix them up.

Despite the fact that newer and better turbos are being added to cars all the time, it isn't as simple as one might think to change a turbo. In the same way that you can change the turbo on your car, you can also change the model. In most cases, you'll need to do the following things to finish the process:

• The old fuel injectors need to be changed out.
• Changing the diameter of the exhaust pipe
• A new fuel pump can be easily put in.
• Changing out the circuit board that controls the amount of boost that the car gets
• Cooling systems like intercoolers can be added.
• The waste gate needs to be changed.
• People can use performance catalytic converters that flow better.
• Replacement of exhaust mufflers to improve exhaust flow

There may seem to be a lot of work that needs to be done, but it all depends on what kind of car you have. An important factor in how difficult it will be for someone to move an Audi turbo into a different car is how the engine compartment is set up.

A lot of things might have to be changed, like where the exhaust and intake pipes go, how big the intercooler needs to be, and how much space there is. Turbochargers that work with a hybrid engine.

Hybrid Turbo Chargers: What's the big deal about them?

People use them for a reason.

There are a lot of companies that make turbochargers, like Stigan, IHI, and Borgwarner. Many people think hybrid turbochargers are needed.

The components of hybrid turbochargers, as these are better than the original, come from a variety of different companies. In terms of output, these hybrid turbochargers are better than the stock turbochargers.

In what ways are they different from OEM turbos?

A hybrid turbo can have a single component changed or, in some cases, all of the pieces of the original turbo replaced to get very high performance but still using a stock specification casing.

Hybrid Turbos have a lot of advantages. Hybrid turbos are better than standard turbos when it comes to speed and performance because they are made with the best parts in the industry and spool up quickly and give better top end power.

This makes sure that the parts will last for a long time. In general, the more you pay for a hybrid turbo, the better the engine will perform. It's true that hybrid turbos have some advantages.

A Lighter Flywheel

There is a lot of rotational force from stored in the flywheel which is a big metal wheel between the engine and the gear box.

Using this helps the car hold steady when the engine speed changes, which is good for cruising but not so good when you need to move quickly with the engine. It takes a lot of work to turn the wheel and the engine revs slow down gradually which can be detrimental to performance.

Having a lighter wheel makes the engine work less hard, which allows it to rev more freely, which allows it to make more power. A race-tuned engine revs faster than a stock engine. Having a lighter flywheel makes the engine have less momentum or inertial spin, which is more noticeable on hills.

But if you have a lighter flywheel, you lose speed more quickly on a steep slope. When the engine has a heavy flywheel, it keeps going, but the hill has a much bigger effect on its output. People use this type of engine in races where the course is flat and quick engine speed changes are needed.

Because the engine is more responsive, the driver often heels and toes gear changes and brakes.

Various flywheel weights are available to get the most torque and the least amount of revving. For cars on the street, you don't want to go too light, because your tick over could get worse. In the TorqueCars forums, you can talk about your application with other people who use the site.

We should also discuss the DMF or dual mass flywheel

They have two separate surfaces that are joined together by a spring, so they look different and are really effective at damping engine vibration and shocks protecting your drivetrain.

They make diesel engines run more smoothly and cut down on the chance of them reversing. Some of our members are replacing DMFs with solid and lighter flywheels. Before you do this, read our tutorial on DMF to SMF conversions, which will help you understand how to do this. It is NOT A GOOD IDEA ON MOST DIESELS and some petrol engines.

A4 B6 Intake and Exhaust.

This time, we'll look at how to make sure the engine is running smoothly. The best way to get the most power in most peoples mind is to get a full induction kit. BUT THESE RARELY INCREASE POWER unless you have hit a restriction.

On small engines, you will actually lose low-down power, so we suggest you use a sports panel air filter instead of a paper air filter. Diesel air filters flow very well and do not need upgrading.

Porting and Bigger Valves on the A4 head

Increasing the valve size of the A4 B6 engine heads, doing port work, and letting the head flow will also make the car more powerful. Most importantly, this gives you the chance to raise the torque increase on other tuning parts.

If there isn't a step that stops air from getting into the engine, opening up the air intake port to match the intake manifold won't do much good at all. DIY port matching work is best done on the exhaust ports, so this is where most of it should be done.

It's important to note that expanding the port size isn't always good. It's only needed when the port size has become a bottleneck in very well-tuned engines.

Flow rates are often better when channels are a little narrower and there are fewer bends or angles.

Having two port openings that aren't nearly the same size will make the engine lose power. This is why many modern intakes are made of plastic because it's lighter and can be made to a very precise shape.

In this picture, the goal is to make the connection between the intake manifold (x) and the engine port (y) in a race car engine be as smooth as possible.

If you have a direct injection engine, this isn't true for you. The fuel injector (f) sprays fuel into the intake manifold, which makes it easier for the valves to open and close.

This also means that the intake angle has been made more shallow, which makes it easier for the air to flow into the engine almost straight down. This isn't always possible on all engines, but the main goal is to make air flow more smoothly and avoid a lot of twists and turns.

Do not buy the biggest exhaust you can find. The best for power gains are usually between 1.5 and 2.5 inches long, but it's not always the case.

Having a good fast road power clutch will help keep that power where it should be. If you don't want to spend money, don't expect a standard clutch to work. All turbo-charged cars can get a lot more power with remaps, and they work for all of them. On NA (naturally aspirated) engines, the benefits aren't clear, but if you've made a lot of changes, it will help you get the most out of them.

A4 B6 Wheel modifications.

Alloy wheels assist in cooling down the brakes and are typically lighter than steel wheels. Big alloy wheels may look good on the A4 B6, but their performance will be negatively impacted.

This is because your effective final drive ratio changes as you go bigger. This means your top speed will be slower as you go bigger. If you can, try to keep your wheel's overall rolling diameter as close to what it came with from the factory as you can.

All the time, we don't think you should go above 18 inches. Some of our members have put on 19 and 20-inch rims to fit Porsche brake conversions, but they all had problems with tram lining and other things because of the bigger rim size.

A4 B6 Common Problems and Issues

There are a few problems and issues to look out for on these, but I've split these off into other articles.

1. 2.0 TFSi carbon problems - direct injection engines require an intake clean 25,000 miles.
2. 2.0 TFSi problems - high oil consumption, N75 and N249, Cam Follower wear, Water Pump failure, and Turbo issues
3. 2.0 TDi problems - Oil pump, Flywheel, Lumpy Idling

Please join us in our forum to discuss the A4 B6 options in more detail with our A4 B6 owners. It would also be worth reading our A4 B6 tuning articles to get a full grasp of the pros and cons of each type of modification.

 

This article is flagged for an update, so please pass on specific tips below that I can include. All articles, and content was written by me, Waynne Smith TorqueCars founder. Some outlines are just too general so I appreciate your feedback and suggestions. This entry was filed under Audi. You can leave a response below or join our forum to discuss this article and car modification in detail with our members.

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