What is the difference between stage 1, 2 and 3 tuning?
"The tuning world often refers to stages"
You will often hear tuning companies and car tuners going on about stage 1, 2 and 3 mods. What are these different stages and what do they mean?
We hate to shatter the illusion but they are, in the main, fairly meaningless terms if applied to power gains and cannot reliably be used to explain how much power a modification adds. There is no consistent difference in part makers between their classifications of stage 1 stage 2 and stage 3 mods.
There are however some points that one should bear in mind that differentiate between a "typical" mod in each stage.
Stage 1 modifications.
A stage 1 modification can be added in isolation. This means that a true stage 1 modification part does not require any other engine modifications to get it to work. Whilst other mods can help to raise the power gains and realize the full potential of the mod they are not mandatory. These are at the bottom end of the tuning scene in terms of the overall benefits you will get.
Stage 1 mods are generally a straightforward DIY fit and should work on a standard engine that is in good condition.
Some examples of stage 1 mods include, induction kits, panel air filters, sports exhausts, fuel pressure regulators, a simple engine remap or timing changes, blow off valves/diverters and the like.
Stage 2 modifications
These stage 2 mods offer larger power gains than stage one but will usually require additional work or other parts if you want them to work reliably. Some of the examples listed in stage 1 can also be regarded as stage 2 mods if they are extreme in their ambition.
A stage 2 mod is usually a DIY fit but many will require specialist knowledge and tools. Addition of a larger or hybrid turbo (requires a remap and fueling upgrades as well as potential engine strengthening), fast road cams (need some engine dismantling and will need to be fitted with followers/lifters etc but ideally the engine will need to be remapped), Supercharger kits (these need air intake, exhaust and mapping modifications before they can work at all.)
Stage 3 modifications
A stage 3 modification is regarded by most as a track day modification. Like stage 2 mods they will also need other mods to support them but they are usually far from ideal for road use as we will explain.
Take racing brakes for example. These can tolerate extremely high temperatures but they are pretty useless whilst cool. On the road you can't afford to have to wait for the brakes to warm up before they operate effectively. On the track they will run hot through each lap. An aggressive cam profile will also move the power band right up the rev range and cause a very lumpy tick over making the car hard to drive in day to day traffic. Heavy duty clutches can be off or on in their nature and make driving in slow traffic nearly impossible.
A stage 3 race modified car will also need to be regularly overhauled and serviced. The extra strain put on the cars engine will result in premature engine wear and if a car is used on a daily basis it will become very unreliable.
So to summarize stage 3 mods are the most aggressive and not the sort of thing you want to do on a road car. You will also need to bear in mind that some tuning companies will just box their parts in packs labeled stage 1,2 and 3 and maybe even 4 or 5.
Such labeling is as helpful as a product number and should not be taken as any sort of guarantee of the power gains or suitability for your car.
If you liked this page please share it with your friends, drop a link to it in your favourite forum or use the bookmarking options to save it to your social media profile.
Please use our forums if you wish to ask a tuning question, and please note we do not sell parts or services, we are just an online magazine.
Help us improve, leave a suggestion or tip
2 Responses to “Stage 1, 2 & 3 tuning mods explained”