Tuning advice for Mitsubishi Airtrek Turbo

[blacktreker]

Hi guys, nice to meet u all. I am a newbie here and newbie to tuning as well, so forgive me if i ask silly questions :embarrest:

I recently acquired a 2003 Mitsubishi Airtrek Turbo, in some countries, it is sold as Outlander. It is basically sharing the same motor & tranny (automatic) from the EVO 7 GTA.

Current mods,
1) decatted stock exhaust (emission control is very relaxed in where i live)
2) Greddy EBC @1 bar
3) wastegated
4) BOV
5) drop-in air filter
6) 3" downpipe

I wish to improve the low end drivability, like better response, faster spooling turbo. But as it is an automatic, how does it differ from manuals?

I have plans to replace the stock exhaust system (i think is s-flow type, pls correct me if i am wrong) to a more direct system. But i read somewhere that for automatic applications, direct isnt ideal and will cause low end loss.

Can anybody enlighten me on this issue?

 

[T9 man]

Greetings and Welcome!

 

[bigbadjoe]

First of all, you need to get yourserlf a boost controll guage. Then get it mapped to about 1.4-1.6 bar. The engine can handle that with ease. Second, you need to buy a larger turbo housing, and upgrade the elbow to the exhaust. This will allow airflow out of the back end run a lot smoother. So far we are talking about £300 for parts, and whatever they charge you to map. Then change your air filter into the car. I don't know how dusty it is out there, but I would sujest a pannel filter, not a cone.

You will notice the change strate away. I know I did.

I would put off buying a larger turbo, as you can not use it untill you change the cams. If you were to, then you might end up with a larger bill then you thought, as the cooling system may not take it, and the engine defo will not.

 

[turbonutter69]

Hello and Welcome to Torquecars.:bigsmile:
Hope you enjoy your time with us.

 

[blacktreker]

First of all, you need to get yourserlf a boost controll guage. Then get it mapped to about 1.4-1.6 bar. The engine can handle that with ease. Second, you need to buy a larger turbo housing, and upgrade the elbow to the exhaust. This will allow airflow out of the back end run a lot smoother. So far we are talking about £300 for parts, and whatever they charge you to map. Then change your air filter into the car. I don't know how dusty it is out there, but I would sujest a pannel filter, not a cone.

You will notice the change strate away. I know I did.

I would put off buying a larger turbo, as you can not use it untill you change the cams. If you were to, then you might end up with a larger bill then you thought, as the cooling system may not take it, and the engine defo will not.

thank you for your advice. actually i only intend to improve the performance through simple mods. can you pls explain "buy a larger turbo housing, and upgrade the elbow to the exhaust" to me? i am a noob in this modding thing, so i have not much idea what you are trying to tell me do.

 

[blacktreker]

I was told that automatic transmission cars needs some backpressure to maintain low end torque for day to day driving. How true is that ?

By the way, I have replaced the downpipe to a 3" up to the mid box (where the cat used to be), and the rest remains 2.5" all the way till the stock S-Flow muffler.

As my stock muffler is an S-Flow (indirect) box. How would it affect the characteristics of the engine if I were to replace the stock muffler with a direct flow muffler? Would it improve my turbo lag or would it make it worse?

 

[bigbadjoe]

thank you for your advice. actually i only intend to improve the performance through simple mods. can you pls explain "buy a larger turbo housing, and upgrade the elbow to the exhaust" to me? i am a noob in this modding thing, so i have not much idea what you are trying to tell me do.

A lot of the time, you can acheave much more power out of the trubo you already have, with just a few mod's. To save you buying a larger one. Airflow has a lot to do with it. The easyer it is for exhaust gasses to leave the car, the better your turbo and engine can work together. Adding a larger trubo houseing and a smoother elbow to the exhaust will allow the airflow to go through the trubo and straight out into the air. If the elbow is small, bendy, or the you have a cat on, then the air struggles to leave the car, and slows up the turbo. A symple D-cat, (£50) elbow (£90) and larger turbo housing (Second hand £100) can improve the performance by up to 30-40bhp. By adding an upgraded airfilter at the other end of the car, and a symple remap, your car will feel like a completley new car. A new car for £500? Sounds good to me!

 

[blacktreker]

I was told that automatic transmission cars needs some backpressure to maintain low end torque for day to day driving. How true is that ?

By the way, I have replaced the downpipe to a 3" up to the mid box (where the cat used to be), and the rest remains 2.5" all the way till the stock S-Flow muffler.

As my stock muffler is an S-Flow (indirect) box. How would it affect the characteristics of the engine if I were to replace the stock muffler with a direct flow muffler? Would it improve my turbo lag or would it make it worse?

Does anybody have an answer?

 

[djcontrol]

Hi all I've just bought an Airtrek Turbo R. I'm struggling trying to work out how to fit the speedo converter as I'm unsure which wires to choose to connect it,as there seems to be three of each colour ..

Any ideas ?

Here's the kit instructions

http://www.svaspeedos.co.uk/pdfs/mitsubishi/AIRTREK.pdf

 

[T9 man]

Greetings djcontrol and welcome to our TorqueCars forum

The drawing seems very straight forward to me, look at the speedo head connector and as your holding the wires to the connector with the connector held horizontally, then the edge on your left is THE LEFT and the edge of the connector on THE RIGHT is the right. The drawing shows you exactly what cable to connect too and even tells you the pin number on the speedo head connector to connect too. If your in doubt then just deal with the signal wire and take the 12+ and the 0v Neg Earth from another point in the car that is easier for you to understand, just make sure the voltage used goes off when you switch of the ignition key.
Failing this pop the car to an auto electrician who should be able to this in a matter of moments once the speedo head connector has been removed.

 

[djcontrol]

Greetings djcontrol and welcome to our TorqueCars forum

The drawing seems very straight forward to me, look at the speedo head connector and as your holding the wires to the connector with the connector held horizontally, then the edge on your left is THE LEFT and the edge of the connector on THE RIGHT is the right. The drawing shows you exactly what cable to connect too and even tells you the pin number on the speedo head connector to connect too. If your in doubt then just deal with the signal wire and take the 12+ and the 0v Neg Earth from another point in the car that is easier for you to understand, just make sure the voltage used goes off when you switch of the ignition key.
Failing this pop the car to an auto electrician who should be able to this in a matter of moments once the speedo head connector has been removed.

Thanks for reply , what I was worried about was that the diagram only shows 9 wires connected , when the actual connector behind dials has 11 on each row .. I'll have another look tmrw ..thks