MX6 No-Start Condition

mattdyck

New member
Points
11
Location
Canada
Car
Mazda MX-6 LS 2.5V6
I'm in the process of learning because I can't afford another expensive mechanic bill at the moment. Anyway, my Mazda MX-6 has a no start condition. It recently had a bunch of work done to it including the timing belt, cap and rotor, and a bunch of things related to the cooling system and whatnot. It ran smoother than ever for two weeks and then one morning it just would not start.

Here's the list of what I've done so far:
-Gas tank is half full
-Battery is charged well
-Engine has spark while cranking
-Fuel pump does NOT come on with the key set to on
-Research tells me the MX6 does not have an inertia switch
-Fuel pump relay has been tested and works fine (and it is clicking when key set to on) so it has power.
-Jumper F/P pin to Ground in Diagnostic box, fuel pump still won't come on

So, on to my questions:
I'm not sure how to access the fuel pump wires to check if they are getting voltage, do I have to drop the tank just for that? Cause it seems like it would be a bit overkill for something a simple as checking voltage.

Now, I don't really suspect that the fuel pump is actually the issue; is it possible that the crankshaft position sensor, or something related there is telling the fuel pump not to come on? (Bear with me as my mechanical knowledge is limited).

If you have any other ideas of what could cause that, please let me know so I can look into that. Thanks.
 
Yeah, I've seen a few videos like that. If it comes down to it, I guess I'll have to do that, but I'm not really convinced that the fuel pump just decided to go only shortly after all the other work in the engine bay. (The invoice was literally 3 pages long .V(). Plus there were no signs of fuel starvation up until the point I went to start it the other day.
 
So, anyone know if it's possible for the cps, distributer, cap, rotor, whatever to prevent the fuel pump from running? Or how to check for signal to the fuel pump without dropping the tank? Or even how to jumper power directly from the battery to the fuel pump (once again without dropping the tank)?
 
Well if you had so much work done recently with a 3 page long invoice, then I would strongly suggest you take it back to the garage and get them to sort it and thus removing the guess work involved in a fault diagnosis.
Remember, any garage guarantee should last considerably longer than it takes for the ink to dry on the invoice.
Good luck to you sir.
 
Thanks. Yeah, I may have to just wait until I can afford to have it towed back in. I just figured it was worth trying to pinpoint the issue myself in my spare time.
 
Phone them and tell them buddy, they should either come and get the car or send someone around to see if it is something silly. Customer service can make or break a garage, so if they are honourable then they will do the right thing.
 
Forgot to tell what happened. Anyway, I got it fixed again after having sit for a while, and it ran great for a couple days. Then I cleaned it thoroughly and when I washed the engine bay it wouldn't start again. I thought I got water in the distributor, so I dried that. Nothing. Then I came back to it the next day and started fiddling with any connectors or sensors that I could easily find and noticed my engine coolant temperature sensor was physically broken. I wiggled it and tried starting the car again, and it fired up. It set a code immediately and misfired a lot. Checked the codes and it was definitely the sensor. So I biught the part and replaced it myself and it's been driving perfectly ever since. I figured I better just explain that in case someone is having the same issue.
 
Thanks for the update! I'm sure it will help others with a similar problem.
 

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