How To: Performance Clutch Install

TommyTwinCams

Track Warrior
Points
42
Location
Shelton, Connecticut, USA
Car
2004 Saturn Ion 2.2
I mentioned that I needed to replaced the transmission on my Saturn due to not having fifth gear and that I was upgrading to a SPEC stage 1 performance clutch kit while I was at it. I decided to make a how to on doing it since the engine and transmission combo is popular not just in America, but in Europe and Australia as well.

I'll be updating this in increments as I don't have much time to work on it at school.

Notes: I have access to a hydraulic lift and professional tools. Not everyone is so lucky. I'm also replacing the transmission, not JUST doing the clutch, but the tranny has to come out anyways so the procedure should be the same

Car used:
2004 Saturn Ion Level 2 Quad Coupe
Engine: L61 2.2L DOHC 16 valve Ecotec 4 cylinder (AKA the Z22SE in the UK and Europe, C22SEL in Australia)
Transmission: Getrag F23 5 speed Manual (RPO code M86)
Platform: GM Delta platform (shared with Vauxhall/Opel/Holden Astra, Pontiac G5/Pursuit, Chevrolet Cobalt, and Chevrolet HHR)

Clutch Kit: 2004 Saturn Ion 2.2L SPEC Stage 1 clutch kit
Part Number: SR981

The car:
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BEGIN!

1: Begin by removing the underhood Fuse box cover. It should just come off with a bit of wiggling
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2: Remove the auxiliary positive battery Terminal and disconnect the 2 wires it holds on. Size should be a 10 MM socket
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3: Now disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery itself. On my car, the battery is located in the trunk. No photo. Should be an 8 or 10mm bolt

4: Now the ECM and fuse box are held in by the same bracket. This bracket needs to be unbolted so you can move it around. It will not come out without the entire wiring harness to my knowledge. This bracket is called the "Junction Bracket" by my books. There are 2 nuts (one hidden by the 2 wires we just moved in step 2) and a bolt. The nuts are 10 MM and the bolt is 13 MM.
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5: Now move the clamp and move the hose leading to the coolant surge tank out of the way. Use a pair of pliers to move the clamp.
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6: Now to move the junction bracket around, you need to disconnect the front wires plugged into the ECM. The smaller on on the right comes out after moving the blue clip out. The left one is held in with a 7mm bolt
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7: Now move the ECM and fuse box out of the way. I used zip ties to hold it up out of the way. (no photo)

8: Now Disconnect the hydraulic clutch hose. It's held on with a small clip. Remove the clip and put it somewhere you'll remember it. You'll need it later. Wiggle the hose out of its fitting.
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9: Now here's where I used some professional tools. Install some top support to hold the engine in place. Alternatively, I think a strut tower bar MAY be substituted.
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10: Now for the first fun part. Enjoy it. Unbolt the top transmission mount. It uses 3 bolts, size 16mm
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11: Now undo the top transmission to engine bolt. Size 18mm
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12: Now raise the car (Remember. I had a lift. This can be done in a driveway with a jack) and remove the Left Front wheel. My Saturn uses 3 normal lug nuts (size 19mm) and 1 locking lugnut, whose adapter is also 19mm. (No photo)

13: Going in through the left front wheel well, disconnect the Reverse light sensor and unmount it from the clip. Since I'm replacing the transmission, I removed the sensor entirely for later use. If removing the sensor, use a wrench, not a socket so as to avoid damaging the connector
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14: Now disconnect the wheel speed sensor. That thing with the blue clip in the photo. The clip is on both sides and room is tight, so it's a pain to take out.
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15: Now remove the 2 shifter cables from the shifter. They should just pop off with a bit of force. Ball and socket type deal. Sorry no photo.

16: Then remove the reverse hex bolt (12mm) for the shifter bracket. Again, no photo, sorry.

This is as far as I got today as I spent a lot of time trying to figure out where everything was. I'm taking my time so please be patient. Next update will be this Friday. I had to stop then because the Saturn has electric power steering and I needed to move it outside. I had to rehook up the fuse box cables, ECM cables and the negative battery cable.

I just love ending the day with dirty hands. Makes me feel accomplished :D and this is after washing them 3 times variously throughout the day.
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It's not a good shop day without an injury.... however small :D
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Bye-bye til Friday!
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I was lazy this weekend. Next update is tomorrow. Here's what got done Friday in the little time I had (My teacher wanted to leave early).

16: Now remove the front wheels (no picture)

17: Now unbolt the tie rods. 18 MM nut (no picture)

18: Now use a tie rod fork and hammer to remove the tie rod from the control arm.
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19: Now remove the axle nuts. 29 mm impact socket. (no picture)

20: Now unbolt the bottom of the strut from the lower control arm. Use an 18mm socket and a 15 mm wrench. Use a flat tip screw driver after the bolts are removed to pry the strut out of the control arm and move it out of the way.
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21: now take a pry bar under the car and pry the drive shafts from the transmission. Be careful not to rip the boot. (No picture of the pry bar taking the drive axles out. So here's a picture of the drive axles removed)
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22: Now go into the engine bay from the top and remove the fill cap for the transmission. Then go under and remove the transmission drain plug and drain all the fluid. The drain plug on my car used a metric hex wrench.
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23: Now set 4 jack stands under the car positioned under the 4 corners of the subframe to support it.

24: We are now ready to drop the sub-frame. It's held in with 4 21 mm bolts. Use an impact gun.
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And this is where I left off Friday. I was allowed to leave the car in the shop like this during the weekend.

During all this, I took some time and removed the front air dam behind the front bumper cover, so as to allow more cold air to my intake box.
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I'm sorry to lack an update but there's finally one today.
Due to circumstances beyond my control, mainly time constraints, I was unable to finish this project myself and therefore am unable to finish the write up. The car was finished today.

The situation. I go to a technical school where every other day, and every other friday, we have the shop. So Monday's, Wednesdays, and alternating Fridays, my class had the shop. This was my only chance to work on the car. The semester ends in April (I believe April 13) and since I graduate after this semester (and one of our shop days being canceled next week due to a teacher meeting. No school that day. Also, the last week of school for Seniors has no shop. All classroom, so no chance of working on it then), I had to relinquish control to one of the teachers who assured me it would get done, and that the other students who worked on it would document what they could for me, but to me, the info is useless without photos. I'm in the morning class, which is from 7:30 am to 12:45 PM, Mid-day starts at 1:00 PM and ends at 5:45 PM. Night class starts at 6:00 PM and ends at 10:30 PM. The car was in the shop through morning, mid-day, and night classes yesterday as well as today's morning class (which is a different class from mine). All the classes worked to finish the car for me.

Why was it taking me so long? Because I'd have to put most of the car back together to push it outside at the end of my class, and come next shop day, I'd have to re-disassemble everything, essentially starting from step 1 again since with the electric power steering, it either has power steering or no steering at all (as in the steering wheel will not budge).

So I apologize to those inconvenienced by this, but the situation was out of my control.
 

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