At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2

Received the outcome of my request for voluntary redundancy - I have been accepted - Yipeee!! (I think).

If days were minutes, I have exactly one hour left to work :)

Hopefully, this means that I can finally get serious with the car (apart from the long TODO list which is no doubt already being prepared by the boss).

Realistically, car will be out on the track this time next year.
 
who is going to fix all the potholes now !!!!!!!!!!!!!
ohh well do you play golf? your going to need to take up something after youve fininshed the car
 
who is going to fix all the potholes now !!!!!!!!!!!!!
ohh well do you play golf? your going to need to take up something after youve fininshed the car

According to most members on here no one is filling them at the moment, so I won't be missed!

I do play golf (very occasionally) but, as TN pointed out, projects are never finished :)
 
Update.....

Propshaft should arrive from Bailey Morris Limited on Tuesday.

Rear hubs were made VERY well, so I decided to do a little lightening. Photos show progress. Holes have now been chamfered and second hub marked and centre punched for drilling tomorrow. Reduction in weight is approx 400gms each. Doesn't sound much but bear in mind that, in terms of handling performance, every gram removed from the unsprung weight is like taking 6-8gms off the sprung weight :)

 
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Latest update.

Existing big wing WRC baffled sump sticks 50mm below chassis - not good. Engine is back with Geoff Page Racing to rectify this problem. Old sump has been removed and will be sold on to fund the modification of a standard sump so we have the same capacity but less depth. Pickup will also have to be shortened and resited.
 

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1 of my favorite builds on this forum and just realised im not subscribed:embarrest:

just curious when having a engine standing for so long without running, is it filled with oil?? (i dont know so sorry if you find this a stupid question!)
 
1 of my favorite builds on this forum and just realised im not subscribed:embarrest:

just curious when having a engine standing for so long without running, is it filled with oil?? (i dont know so sorry if you find this a stupid question!)

Internals still covered in assembly lube. Kept dry and turned regularly.

Went down to Southampton last Saturday to chat to my carbon fibre man. Door skins are made. Main part of the door will be ready when I get back from the States in July. He will bring them up to Essex so we can do a first fitting and make sure window frames line up with the A pillars. Doors will be all CF with Polycarbonate windows. This will give be lightweight doors for racing and standard doors for road use. All that will then be left to make in CF will be the body :)
 
Ok, I have decided to bite the bullet and go sequential.

The main stumbling blcok (apart from the price) has been the size of the boxes strong enough to take the power (600bhp+). They don't fit inside my chassis.

However, I have been looknig at the Elite IL300. This is rated at 500lb/ft and is tall and narrow. This means that I should only have to cut and modify the top and/or the bottom of the chassis - a far easier proposition than the sides.

http://www.eliteracingtransmissions.com/product.php?g=7&c=11


Elite are sending me an empty case so I can check out if it will fit.

One advantage of this box is that it has a pair of drop gears allowing ratio changes to be made whilst the box is in situ.

Anyone had any experience of these boxes, or knows of an alternative (I am trying to borrow a case from Quaife) ?
 
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Elite casing arrived on Friday. Somewhat different to my T5.

The gear lever is a lot further back which is an issue.

The second photo shows how far into the chassis the Elite box will go without modification. It needs to be approx 125mm further back into the chassis.

On discussing this with Elite they are sending me a shorter tailshaft section. Under the tailshaft there is a vetical flange that fouls the bottom of the chassis. This can be removed without any detrimental affect, apparently.

The shorter tailshaft and flange removal should allow the gearbox to fit. A remote linkage can then be made to bring the gearlever back into a usable position.

Why am I spending an awful lot of money on this? 0.5 second reduction in 1/4 mile ET :)
 

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The question is does it fit?

I will get a much better idea once the shorter tailshaft arrives. However, it seems close enough to be able to make it fit :)

I can't really afford it, but as the box is the weak link in an otherwise very strong chain I can't really afford not to. Unfortunately I have just had a propshaft made for the original box so this will need modifying. Oh, well :)
 
didnt think it would have made that big a difference to your times, is that more to you being able to pick the ratios properly ?

It's a little to do with fine tuning ratios, but more to do with flat shifting in 0.08sec :)
 
well old-git (i'm one as well) i have just come across this post the work and engineering is excellent and can understand some of the problems you have to overcome about 15 years ago i rebuilt a 1936 ford roadster replacing the old side valve engine with a 272 over head valve engine and fordamatic trans.and updating brakes etc. two years and many many headaches keep up the good work best wishes on your project.
 
well old-git (i'm one as well) i have just come across this post the work and engineering is excellent and can understand some of the problems you have to overcome about 15 years ago i rebuilt a 1936 ford roadster replacing the old side valve engine with a 272 over head valve engine and fordamatic trans.and updating brakes etc. two years and many many headaches keep up the good work best wishes on your project.

Thanks for your best wishes, I need all the encouragement I can get :)

I now understand why it appears that no one has done this before! However, if it isn't a challenge there is no real point or satisfaction in doing it (IMO). The overcoming of the, sometimes impossible looking, problems is the most satisfying part of any project.

Any photos of your project?
 
sadly no pics my dear EX wife decided to help me with my things and burnt everything dvd,cd,photo's camera and even some clothing i got the feeling she didn't like me any more i could say more but i don't want to bore you. i have got some pics of a couple of morris minors (rebuilt) i will dig them out and post them thanks for your reply cheers
 
sadly no pics my dear EX wife decided to help me with my things and burnt everything dvd,cd,photo's camera and even some clothing i got the feeling she didn't like me any more i could say more but i don't want to bore you. i have got some pics of a couple of morris minors (rebuilt) i will dig them out and post them thanks for your reply cheers

Ohhh, that's nasty. That's like wiping someones memories. Justifiable homicide would be a strong defence :)

Look forward to seeing something older than 1970 on this side :)
 
I have been discussing my gearbox issue with Rob at Elite Racing Transmissions. He sent me a shorter tailshaft and the box bow sits back a further 75mm. Still not enough, though.

However, Elite can can supply a shorter main shaft and can also shorten the bellhousing. By removing the clutch release bearing mounting and spacer I spent hours lightening :) the bellhousing could be shortened by around 70mm.

This would allow the box to fit and the engine to be moved 10mm back so the front crankshaft pulley is clear of the chassis crossmember so it doesn't need to be modified - a win-win situation :)

Elite can also modify my recently made propshaft. Some abortive work and purchases but, hey, all part of the modifying game.
 
I have just come back from walking our dog in woods opposite our house (this is a new task I have been assigned since retiring :) ).

Wandering through the woods gives you time to think and I was mulling over the jobs still required on the Elan. It dawned on me that if I was to have any realistic chance of getting it finished in time for next season I needed some help. To that end I have decided to outsource the finishing and spraying of the bodywork, once I have completed all of the modifications.

To that end I need a good sprayer who also knows how to deal with fibreglass within around 50-100 miles of Chelmsford, Essex, UK. Any offers or ideas? I will, of course, be asking Timmy :)
 
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I know specialist bits can be expensive but:

Having changed the sump we found that the original 4WD oil spray bar fouled the sump. As the 2WD version is slightly shallower I started to hunt for one but they appear to be rarer than the proverbial rocking horse brown stuff.

A friend's dad works for Ford and can get me one at a discount, for around £460!!!

We have decided to modify the sump so the 4WD will fit, not surprisingly :)
 
Not a lot has happened since the last progress report.....

I have now ordered my sequential gearbox from Elite Racing Transmissions.

I also now have two engines to choose from. I bought a 3 door Sierra Cosworth to strip for parts recently. It had a rebuilt engine spec'd to 600bhp that hasn't even been fired up.

I now have to decide whether to go with 520 or 600bhp, oh what a dilemma.

What to the panel suggest I should do? Is 520bhp in a 600kg car enough for anybody?

However, A 1000bhp/tonne is a nice round number :)

Both engines are new and unused so I will be selling the one I don't need.

http://www.torquecars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=651&stc=1&d=1287257323
 

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It's always good to have a spare :p Otherwise, you should know my answer!

Hmmmmm, let me guess.....

Cars shouldn't be this powerful, so I should fit a standard engine that will give me better fuel economy and cost less to maintain. yes?
 
Just remembered...

On investigation, I discovered that pre 1968 cars can run hydraulic handbrakes, so I have gone down this route. This has saved me hours sorting out cables, brackets etc. Simply route the yet to be fitted rear brake pipe through handbrake cylinder, job done.
 
I have now stripped the 'spare engine' only to discover that it isn't what it claimed to be:

It has steel rods, but they look like they were made by a competent machinist with no appreciation of stress relieving. The standard Cosworth rods were probably stronger!

The valves are not seated at the same height in the combustion chamber.

The machining of the inlet tract wasn't finished to the required standard.

It had been long studded, but their shoulders didn't sit flush with the block surface so there was a risk of the head not seating properly!

All in all, looks like it was built by an amateur :-(

So, we have decided to keep my engine and rebuild this one properly for sale.

On a brighter note, more goodies have arrived from my favourite supplier of fuel and brake line fittings, Torques.co.uk. I know this is a blatant plug, but when I find a supplier that is friendly, helpful and knowledgeable I like to spread the news. Also, if you happen to mention that Steve Broad recommended him to you it won't do me any harm either :)

The fuel pump clamps and additional one way valve I knew I still needed. The extra -6 90 degree fittings are due to design changes that always happen once you stop planning and start building :)

elan fuel connectors.jpg
 
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