Changing a wheel

OK heres a quick guide to changing a wheel

Tools Required
Jack preferable Hydraulic one
Socket most common sizes 17,19,21. Better than the wheel wrench in the boot
Torque Wrench and setting ( should be in the handbook )
Remove access to wheel nuts if required
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Loosen, DON’T remove the wheel nuts
Jack the car up using the jacking points, reinforced sections
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Place the spare wheel under the sill or use an axle stand
NEVER CLIMB UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK, IF ACCESS UNDER THE CAR IS REQUIRED SUPPORT IT USING AXLE STANDS
Remove the nuts carefully
Remove the wheel
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If you have any fit some copperslip to the hub, or the back of the wheel. This will help to remove the wheels at a later date
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Line up the new wheel and fit the nuts loosely by hand
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Tighten up in this order until the wheel turns
5 Stud
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4Stud
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Lower the car back to the ground and switch to the torque wrench
Set the torque wrench to the specified amount
Tighten the nuts in the same order as above until the wrench clicks or shows specified amount ( this will depend on what wrench your using
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note : I tightened up in the opposite order to what I showed above. Done in the order 1,5,4,3,2 numbers were added to the pic after id finished .
as long as you do opposite wheel bolts


Jobs a dun un
:D
Disclaimer
This is a simple guide, always read all instruction provided by you tool manufactures and in your cars handbook, I take no responsibility for any loss or damage by following this information
 
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yikes, It is funny to think some people don't know how to change a tire. the first truck I had was an 8 lug system.

good examples!
 
Tyre sealant, anyone?

Only those who don't like to get there hands dirty;)

It is worth noting that changing wheels on a Motorway slip road is very dangerous. The AA will tow your car rather than risk a wheel change on a motorway so bear this in mind and stay safe.
 
It is a good way out if the boot's full of luggage, dark night and heavy rainfall.

The other product I rate is the Ultraseal stuff which is installed when the tyre is fitted. It does work and will seal small wounds effectively and safely.

Obviously it will not sort out a cut sidewall, nor would I want it to do so as this could be very dangerous if left indefinitely, but it will give you a few more seconds to play with over the immediate deflation that a blowout causes.

But, IT IS NOT AN EXCUSE TO IGNORE YOUR TYRES. They should still be inspected regularly.
 
It's OK to use an impact gun to remove lug nuts (or lug studs as shown above) and it is OK to use it to put them on only IF it does not have a lot of torque. Know your gun and whether it will over-torque the nuts. Then use the torque wrench after you lowered the car on the ground again to tighten the nuts to the proper torque. If you go to torque down on the nuts and they don't move before the torque wrench clicks, you have over-torqued the nuts and can mess up the stud threads, the lug nuts or warp the rotor.

I always loosen all the lug nuts and remove all but one while the car is on the ground. When you remove the nuts, usually after you remove the second to last nut you will see a slight movement in the wheel as it breaks the seal with the hub. The weight of the car can help you so you don't have to break out a mallet and pound the wheel off. Remove the last nut when the car is jacked up.

If you have the car jacked up and you remove that last lug and the wheel is stuck, there are lots of ways to loosen it. First off, with the car jacked up, hit it with a rubber mallet on the outside of the rim. Beat the hell out of it- the mallet is rubber, the wheel is steel or alloy, you won't hurt it. If that does not work, then put a lug nut on loosely (well, finger tight) and lower the jack abruptly. Sometimes that shock breaks the seal with the hub. If that does not work, put 2 lugs on a bit tighter than finger tight but not to spec torque. then drive the car forward and backward a few times. If it is the front wheel, turn the wheel and drive it forward and back a few times. Only drive a meter or so and stomp the brakes abruptly. Stomp the gas too.

Most German cars have lug studs and hanging the wheel back on can be a PITA. Some early FWD Audis are esp bad because the hub will move separately from the rest of the assembly and the holes will be out of alignment. You can have someone sit in the car and hold the brakes while you mount the wheel. There's also a threaded plastic or aluminum insert that you screw into the hub and the wheel slides over this which holds the wheel on in place while you put the lug studs on.

BEWARE- if you are mounting a Mercedes donut spare, there MAY BE smaller lug studs in a bag with the tire changing equipment. There are usually warnings about these small lugs and directions will mention them. DO NOT use the longer studs that are used for the regular wheel with the donut. Ever. Never ever ever. It'll cost you a couple thousand $$ if you do. If you see the warnings and can't find the studs, call for a tow truck! Tear that car apart and find those special smaller lug studs.
 

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