pug 106 engine oil change

wolfmankurd

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Renault Clio 1.2
I'm trying to change the oil on my brothers Peugeot 106 Zest 1.1, figured it'd be best to learn on that than break something else :D

Anyways, I think I'm pretty set for most of the change but I can't get the damned oil filter housing off. It's a bell shaped thing with hexagonal nut on top, I had to google it to find it. I want to be sure I can change the filter before I go ahead and try to change the oil.

I have a chain type oil filter wrench( similar to this one http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6b/Oil-filter-wrench.jpg) but it can't get purchase on it, it just slips. The housing says 25Nm I'm not really sure how tight that is :confused:. Do I need a special tool? Also just to make sure I'm not doing somehting silly, I need to turn it anticlockwise right? Does that also mean I need to turn socket bit anticlcokwise?

Anywho, any ideas? Should I just give up and go a head with the oil change and leave the filter?
 
not really any point in changing the oil without changing the filter.

yes you need to turn the whole thing anti clockwise and the chain should tighten around the filter then turn it. think about it before you start are you turning it the right way. i looked through a thread where the guy couldnt get his off. he tried the wrench, stillson, screwdriver through the filter. completly wreaked it so gave up and phoned a mobile mechanic. 2 min he had it off, turns out the guy thought he had been turning it anti clockwise in fact was turning it clockwise as it was facing the other way.



personally i dont like those as the socket turns with the chain and prefer these
image01.jpg

although you can struggle with the nut on top meaning the claws dont grab the filter. in that case i used a stillson wrench

the 25Nm is what it should be done up to, more or less hand tight
 
I'll try again later tonight, might also take a picture, the clearance around it isn't too great and the hexagonal thing on top would make it tough to use one of those wrench type things you showed. Anything must be better than this chain thing though :D

Just to make absolutely clear what I'm doing, I put the chain around the housing and turn the socket a/cw until the chain wraps around the socket and there is no slack. I then hold that as tight as I can and turn the whole thing a/cw around the housing, but the chain just slips.
 
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thats the idea.
could you get a large adjustable or stillson on the nut ? thats what i had to do on the wifes as here has that stupid nut on it and i couldnt get the removal tool to grip



(will have a look at your code for the image in a min)
 
I have to use a stillson on mine to get them off and I only hand tighten mine on, plus mine aren't on the car all that long ethier 6k and it's oil change time... I really don't know how they get that stuck on...still it's better than being loose....
I'd also recommend using some engine flush aswell
 
I have to use a stillson on mine to get them off and I only hand tighten mine on, plus mine aren't on the car all that long ethier 6k and it's oil change time... I really don't know how they get that stuck on...still it's better than being loose....
I'd also recommend using some engine flush aswell
I don't think a stillson would fit not much clearance I'll have to try though.

I thought about engine flush and I've seen a few people claiming to have wrecked thier engine with it (usually by not doing it properly I think) thought I'd leave it.

Also someone mentioned very grimey engines having blocke doilways when flushed. Is it still worht trying? I was tempted to try with say half mixes for a bit and work my way up?
 
I thought about engine flush and I've seen a few people claiming to have wrecked thier engine with it (usually by not doing it properly I think) thought I'd leave it.

the flush can remove alot of deposits, the downside is that these deposits could be blocking up scores etc. when these are removed then oil can get past compression lost so the engine runs worse than before.
generally i dont use it but take the car for a good run before hand so the oil is hot, and therefore thinner, so can come out easier
 
Okay I finally got around to taking some pictures:
20100323172151.jpg

Just a general shot. Just wondering, would would happen if I sanded the rust off? Is it worthwhile or not?

A close up of the housing with the hexagonal nut.
20100323172206.jpg
20100323172220.jpg


And a final close up form another angle.

So is this what I should be going at? You can see the scuffed marks on the metal beneath the housing where the filter wrench is slipping and scratching it. :(
 
thought you said it was tight for space ? theres plenty or room there to get a strap around it and twist it off.

re the rust take the head cover off and sand it down with 120grit, 240 grit, 400, 800, 1500 and then get a felt pad and polishing compound for a mirror shine . might take a day and youll need a new gasket for when you refit it
 
Yikes, I'll have more time to work on this after tomorrow and I'm determined to get it done by the end of the week :)

Also, after I polish it do I need to protect it with a coat of anything?
 
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are you using the chain wrench as a lever before you try and turn? You need to attach the chain as tight as you can the lever it with the handle so the chain grips and bites into the filter. That might be why it keeps slipping for you.
 
Yikes, I'll have more time to work on this after tomorrow and I'm determined to get it done by the end of the week :)

Also, after I polish it do I need to protect it with a coat of anything?

ill see if i can get a photo of the other side of the bay.
after youve got it mirror shined you can apply lacquer although it may discolour with the heat. just need to polish it every so often
 
Regarding the rust, I'm guessing this is a bit noobie but I'll need a new "cylinder head cover gasket" right?

are you using the chain wrench as a lever before you try and turn? You need to attach the chain as tight as you can the lever it with the handle so the chain grips and bites into the filter. That might be why it keeps slipping for you.

I'm turning until it's as tight as I can manage.
 
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You can't prove a negative.

How so? What makes it a negative?

My car requires an oil change every 6000 miles and it runs richer since I've adjusted the pump and the turbo waste gate, In a way it's like when you had your 406 re-mapped.

That unburned diesel has to go somewhere and not all of it gets pushed out of the engine, it contaminates the oil making it less affective.
I've seen what heavily contaminated oil turns into and it's not pretty (kind of a foul smelling cakey substance)

Running a bit of oil flush in it can't hurt just to make sure that some of the deposits of "crap" don't contaminate the next fresh lot of oil and surely that would mean that it will be able to do it's job better...

I mean if it's really bad stuff then please let me know but I am yet to see any evidence of engine failure due to the use of an engine flush in an oil change,
 
thats the idea.
could you get a large adjustable or stillson on the nut ? thats what i had to do on the wifes as here has that stupid nut on it and i couldnt get the removal tool to grip

Still slipping I think I'm goign to have to go with that suggestion, I don't have one that'll fit so I'll have to go and buy one.
 
Good news I got it off.
bad news it's not so much a housing as the oil filter?! I took it off and as oil squirted every which way I noticed it has some sort of stick in the center but I was in a rush to screw it on.

So I guess the filter I got from halfords for a 106 1.1l wont work?

t8k7qg.jpg


I've had a look around on tthe other parts of the internet and it looks like the oil filter is inside that.
 
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I never had rich running in the 406 - the boost was raised significantly to allow full combustion. It didn't emit even the finest grey mist under full bore acceleration.

What you're doing, however, is not a bad policy if you use it every oil change. But you do run the risk of having some flush still in there when the new oil goes in which can, in rare cases, cause oil dilution.

I used to get mine filled with AMSOIL 5w/40 diesel specific fully synthetic oil. The detergent package in that stuff was so potent there was no need to flush at all. It was also bloody pricey at sixty quid a fill.

Additionally the 406 had a particle filter which can be contaminated with the wrong oil, or with fuel or oil additives. So I avoided flushes just in case these might have contained something likely to poison it.

And I had no problems at all despite owning the car for over 110,000 miles.
 
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Yeah, I guess I can see you might have problems, I don't know enough about diesel particulate filtration to say any different,

I use Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel (fully synth) 5w/40 in my car and it's been great on it,

a friend of mine keeps telling me that fully synthetic is a waste of time and it's as good as semi synthetic, I just tell him yes mine doesn't require the "good stuff" but it's nice knowing that it's doing a better job....

anyways back to the thread in hand.....

that filter look similar to the one on mine lol,

I've just had a flick though my haynes manuel and that filter should just spin on the side of the block...
maybe that housing was put on by a previous owner, as far as i can work out it may need to be removed, if you have a haynes manuel specific to the 106 consult that first if you don't own one then get one !!!
 
Yeah, I guess I can see you might have problems, I don't know enough about diesel particulate filtration to say any different,

I use Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel (fully synth) 5w/40 in my car and it's been great on it,

a friend of mine keeps telling me that fully synthetic is a waste of time and it's as good as semi synthetic, I just tell him yes mine doesn't require the "good stuff" but it's nice knowing that it's doing a better job....

anyways back to the thread in hand.....

that filter look similar to the one on mine lol,

I've just had a flick though my haynes manuel and that filter should just spin on the side of the block...
maybe that housing was put on by a previous owner, as far as i can work out it may need to be removed, if you have a haynes manuel specific to the 106 consult that first if you don't own one then get one !!!

Diesel particle filtration is an exhaust system function, not an oil function.

Castrol Edge is overpriced and it's not a fully synthetic oil. Your friend is wrong, fully synthetic oils are superb and will out perform any blended oil.

The branding in the UK allows an oil to be branded as synthetic when it only contains 5% or more synthetic base stock.

A true synthetic oil will have a polyolester base stock and it is totally incompatible with polyalphaolefin base stock.

Castrol Edge is a blended oil. It's should be fine with your XUD-T engine but you could save money by using Halfords own brand oils. They are very good indeed - all are exxon sprint (Esso) oils. The only reason I didn't use Halfords' is because they didn't offer a low sulfated ash synthetic to suit the DPF in my car.
 
doenst have to be a paper filter.

have you drained all the oil from the sump ?

not yet, originally they idea was to make sure I could get the housing off before I started the oil change now, it's trying to get at the oil filter before I start the change.

Someone said there was no point chaning the oil if I don't change the filter so I want to get it right :).

On the other hand this process is taking to long so I'll drain the oil tomorrow and try and get at the filter.

edit: haha I completely changed my mine half way through typing this post.
 
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Just hand it to local garage and let them get on with the job. Oil changes are messy and time consuming. Bottling and transporting the drained oil is a nightmare.
 
Just hand it to local garage and let them get on with the job. Oil changes are messy and time consuming. Bottling and transporting the drained oil is a nightmare.
I am really tempted and I may be what I do in the future. But I would like to do it myself just this once!

Also what does the discerning environmentally concerned DIYist do with they oil? I'm going to have about 3L of the stuff soon.
 
i just need to get this right in my head(sorry im tired)
this is your actual oil filter not a housing for the filter???
20100323172220.jpg

and the replacement 1 you got from halfords states on the box its for your car/engine??
 
No, apparently it is.
While I assumed the housing just sat over the oil filter. It seems the oil filter is some how stuck inside the housing. ( here is a similar discription and further down you see the answer which I assume applies to me too http://www.106owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=387662).

The box has the code HOF204, and I looked it up form a booklet they had in the aisle. I've also had a look at a spares website (http://www.pugspares.co.uk/products/7/Filters/?model=106&make=Peugeot&q=) which only stocks similar looking oil filters. One of which says it for all 106 derivitives.

But what I saw inside the housing wasn't anything like that, it may be that there is two parts in it. Which I need to lift out.

Tomorrow I'll have a go most likely. If I can't get at the filter I'll post more descriptions and pictures, (in fact even if I can I will so later people can see how to do it).
 
speak to real motor factors of even pug themselves itll only cost couple of ££ for the filter .
least if you go to pug you would be getting the right one hopeully
 
Diesel particle filtration is an exhaust system function, not an oil function.

Castrol Edge is overpriced and it's not a fully synthetic oil. Your friend is wrong, fully synthetic oils are superb and will out perform any blended oil.

The branding in the UK allows an oil to be branded as synthetic when it only contains 5% or more synthetic base stock.

A true synthetic oil will have a polyolester base stock and it is totally incompatible with polyalphaolefin base stock.

Castrol Edge is a blended oil. It's should be fine with your XUD-T engine but you could save money by using Halfords own brand oils. They are very good indeed - all are exxon sprint (Esso) oils. The only reason I didn't use Halfords' is because they didn't offer a low sulfated ash synthetic to suit the DPF in my car.

I know DPF is to do with the exhaust but you had mentioned it when talking about oil, so oil selection must have a passive affect in it then....

What oil would you suggest then?, I don't buy my oil from halfords, I did look into getting Redline oil which is supposed to be good, but there aren't many people selling "fully synthetic" diesel engine oil

I buy from OPIE oils, and ideally I would use ethier 5w/40 10w/40 or 15w/40

As for the filter I'm stumped, I've no idea what else to suggest, maybe a garage is the best bet then :(
 
I know DPF is to do with the exhaust but you had mentioned it when talking about oil, so oil selection must have a passive affect in it then....

What oil would you suggest then?, I don't buy my oil from halfords, I did look into getting Redline oil which is supposed to be good, but there aren't many people selling "fully synthetic" diesel engine oil

I buy from OPIE oils, and ideally I would use ethier 5w/40 10w/40 or 15w/40

As for the filter I'm stumped, I've no idea what else to suggest, maybe a garage is the best bet then :(

A 10w/40 semi will be fine with your car. Redline's oils are superb. As are AMSOIL's.

However, a full synthetic will always be better than a blended oil. It will stay in grade much longer because it does not require massive amounts of viscosity modifiers to do, simply because the base stock is more stable.

You can extend oil drain and service intervals with a good synthetic oil, with no detriment to reliability or engine wear.

If I MUST recommend an oil then AMSOILs diesel specific 5w/40 synthetic is the one to have. Guy at Opie will be able to advise further. Please do consult him.

Strangely the DEO formulation also carries a SM rating for petrol, engines.
 
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Okay so what I have gleaned is that some 106 models use a catridge style oil filter. where the pole /plunger thing needs to be renewed as does the filter.

To remove the housing it takes a 23mm hexagonal socket.

And the sump plug uses a square section socket(not that this was a secret!)
 
What you have there is a filter housing with the filter inside! You need a 32mm socket to get it off!

You have the new style oil filter system on your mates car!
The old system has the metal oil filter like you have picked up from halfrauds!

Pug changed the system to the new style in 2000! good thing is the newer style filter is cheaper and makes changing the filter easier than the old style imo!

Just need that 32mm socket mate!
 
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