Squeaky Brakes

[Pixel]

Squeaky Brakes

First off, its annoying and something must be done! Any ideas how to kill it? Ive been told that I need to copper grease my brakes and I know where to get some and the guy said I could do it myself. But does anyone know what I do exactly? He said something about pulling the wheels off and smearing it *somewhere* on the disks (I wasn't listening, dammit).

I have 2 drums and 2 disks, does it only happen on disks? It sounds like its coming from the front wheels only (I can hear it when the windows are down and music is off) but I guess I should just grease all 4?

Thanks,

Pix.

[xfirebladex]

There are a few reasons for squeaky brakes. The reason I have them is because I drive as tight-fisted as possible and brake with plenty of time, slowly and progressively. This causes the brake pads to "glaze" and thus not have the same rough-on brake discs as a car that slams the brakes on hard and fast.
I believe the remedy to my solution is to take the brake pads off and scrub them with a wire brush and then use a de-glazing solution to make them not shiny. Not sure if this happens with rear drum brakes though.

Perhaps someone else has more relevant information for your situation.

[pgarner]

it really easy chances are itll only be on the discs.

tools needed jack axle stand wheelbrace (thing for takin the wheels off) g clamp or something to pus the piston back in may be needed, spanners or a nail depending on how your pads come out and coppergrease aka coppaslip any good spares shop should stop this as its an anti siezeing compound up to 1000 degress c

al you have to do is loosen off the wheel jack the car up and support on stand never work on a car by the jack itself . and take the wheel off.

first thing look at the contition of your pads it may be that your pads are worn dow to the metal backing pate if this is the case your going to have to change them. would be a good idea to check them both before you go and buy coppergrease then if you need them buy them there and then

after the wheel open the bonnet and uncap the brake fluid resivior you will need to then find out how to remove the pad from the caliper some require you to remove the caliper by takin out the bolts at the back others are held in place by to pins which need punched out. ive managed to use a nail and hammer to remove ma dads as didnt have the proper tool for this.

with the pad apply coppergrease to the caliper piston around the outside and inside also do the back of the pads metal but do not get it on the discs or the abrasise side of the pad slot the pads back in you may need to push the piston back in a bit this is why you need to have the resivior open, resecure the pads or bolt the caliper back in place put wheel back on tighten up lower car down tourque wheels properly

do other side the same

when finished put the cap back on the resivior. try to do this as quickly as possible to stop water getting in the system
pump the brake until its firm. start the engine and pump the brake again until its got feeling.
get the car moving slowly and brake until there back to normal

if your fitting new pads it helps to rub the metal corners down a little using emready paper like sandpaper for metal as this will help them stop sticking as well

[pgarner]

sorry didnt notice you had been told to put it sumwhere on the disc

DONT DO THIS
as you will need new disc as this stuff aint easy to get off and cant be "burnt" off by using the brakes

[HDi fun]

You can deglaze the pads by applying the brakes firmly a couple of times at 50-60 mpg. Don't come to a halt, but get back to speed and carry on driving to let the airflow cool them down.

New pads are often a problem too, especially if a different brand, therefore a different friction compound. During use the discs get 'coated' with a very very thin layer of pad compound which helps to assist with adhesive friction between disc and pad. This is the type of friction that slows your car most of the time.

Under aggresive use the greater part of stopping power is down to abrasive friction. It's this abrasive behavious that scrapes clean the pad faces. After the conditioning drive mentioned above the pads will develop a new micro coating of pad material, which improves low speed pedal feel.

[aswearing]

errm, putting grease on the brake disc sort of eliminates the whole concept of it does it not?

[HDi fun]

Yep, greasing the discs will certainly stop the squealing. It will also stop you from stopping. You must not apply any lubricant to the disc/pad surfaces

[Pixel]

Then how do I stop the squeaking!??

[HDi fun]

Apply the grease to the backs of the pads

[aswearing]

or have them checked, pads might be on the way out. that will sound like a grating/grinding noise.

[pgarner]

if you dont have a clue anout brakes or no haynes manual see if any of your mates chane theres them selves this will save you money although some garages so free brake check think national and kwik fit do them

beware of the kwik fit fitter tho

[xfirebladex]

You should be able to tell the difference between worn brake pads and squeaky brakes. Worn brake pads sound absolutely horrid as the metal grinds together. pcgarner's walkthrough is pretty much comprehensive on changing brake pads. But a Haynes manual (if they make one) has pictures which are always useful.

Take it for a free brake check, find out what the problem is, then I'm sure someone here will have the answers on how to sort it out.

[HDi fun]

I think you 206 has front pad wear sensors so it'll let you know if the pads are thin

[waynne]

Unless someone has nicked the bulb. This thread cracked me up - DON'T GREASE THE DISKS

The wire brush or stiff wire pad will do a good job on the disks - just done mine and it stops me like hitting a wall of concrete feathers now!

It's a long shot but also check for mice!

[HDi fun]

I think you'll find that Pugs are so bloody intricate that a removed bulb will be reported as a fault by the ECU anyway.

It's like taking the ABS warning lamp out. You'll get God knows how many squeals from the central MFD.