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Old 06-11-2007, 12:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default OIL temp and pressure

looking at fitting a few gauges to the dash to include boost oil temp and oil pressure just on question if the car doesnt have these as standard how and where do you fit the senders for them

i know how to fit the boost gauge but still struggling to find a grommet through the bulk head heatshield, supposedly there is one beside the recirculating valve but am dammed if i can find it found the slight cut out in the head shield but thats it no hole through the bulk
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Old 07-11-2007, 06:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Oil is easy - you could replace your drain plug with a temp sender! As long as the thread matches you should be ok. The oil pressure usually replaces the factory fitted oil pressure warning light switch and instead of an on/off it gives a graduate reading.

Those turbo head shields are a nightmare. Theres even less space in an A3 engine bay so think yourself lucky you have a bigger car!
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Old 07-11-2007, 06:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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yeah i thought the pressure could be done through the drain plug but wasnt 100% sure

i wouldnt say that theres a lot of room in the boras bay so would hate to look in the A3
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Old 07-11-2007, 06:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The ECU must know the boost pressure to regulate it. Maybe you can attach something to the ECU diag port and use that as a source for information.

I'm pretty certain that you can fiddle with the climatronic head and get all sorts of information from that too.
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Old 08-11-2007, 08:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
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ive got a list of codes for the climatronic only 3 that dont have anything to do with the aircon are actual speed coolent temp and engine rpm
got apy of vag com but aint got a lead for it yet all wait and see if that can tell me anything

got quoted £188 for boost pressure and vac, oil temp and oil pressure with all fittings, guages, lights, senders and a din sized panel
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Old 08-11-2007, 06:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Does that include fitting? If so, I'd grab it quickly.

I have an oil temp guage in mine, which is standard factory fit in the instrument panel. It's amazing how much oil temperature varies according to driving style and conditions.

I am cautious to let the oil cool to around 90 celsius before shutting down the engine. This is essential with tubocharged cars, diesel or petrol as the turbo relies upon oil for the bigger part of it's cooling. You don't want to be turning off the engine when the turbo is close to red hot as is totally shafts the bearings. For comparison, oil temperatures can get close to 120 degrees under extreme use. That's the downside of turbochargers - they create LOTS OF EXCESS HEAT.
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Old 08-11-2007, 08:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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yeah that was with all fittings and senders
seriously thinking about it it was 270 euros which worked out at roughly £188

thats what was worring me after i get it remaped am a bit worried about the extra heat causd by the increase in boost, the turbo being on boost longer etc.
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Old 08-11-2007, 11:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgarner
yeah that was with all fittings and senders
seriously thinking about it it was 270 euros which worked out at roughly £188

thats what was worring me after i get it remaped am a bit worried about the extra heat causd by the increase in boost, the turbo being on boost longer etc.
You have to consider that any remap will 'take up the slack' that is built into any cars' maintenance schedule and operating schedule. If you do, as I do, use more of the available performance and then extract more by means of a remap then you do need to be cautious. Turbochargers run hot - hotter still with a power/torque remap.

I get my oil changed every 6000 miles and use either Millers XFD or AMSOIL DEO. Both are fully synthetic 5w/40 oils. Excess heat kills turbochargers. Best to drive gently for the last 2-3 miles and then let it idle for 2-3 minutes more before pulling the key out.

Oil temp is not turbo temp. Oil at 120 degrees can mean turbo(s) at 500 degrees. Idle down time is vital after a performance remap.

You'll wreck your engine (turbochargers first) if you yank the key out after a spirited drive.
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Old 09-11-2007, 07:29 AM   #9 (permalink)
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yeah understood that the remaps took up both driver and car slack ie poor fuel, servicing if any

as for the driving the last 2 or 3 miles easy always have done normally due to being in the town. that as well as normally leave it at idle for a min or 2 after parking up while getting stuff togeather taking cd face off etc

as for oil i normally change it around 5-7k miles. i dont care if audi say this oil last 36k it still will be getting changed

didnt relise that the turbo ran quite that hot knew oil sat at around 100-130 degrees
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Old 09-11-2007, 08:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDi fun
[I get my oil changed every 6000 miles and use either Millers XFD or AMSOIL DEO. Both are fully synthetic 5w/40 oils. .
where abouts do you get you oil ?


found the millers for 5 ltrs fully sythetic 5w 40 £36 not bad

the amsoil for the same spec was £47

just wanting to know how much you pay for yours £47 seems a little steep for around 5 months wear (supposidly lasts 26k miles not a chance )

how good do you find it. i know you pug is in a relitilvy high state compared to standard.

oil due for a change in 3k miles full service by VW in 16 so itll be changed at twice before VW get hold of it not willing to put some in them have them take it out after mabye 1000 mile
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