Viewing: Looking to Tune my Nissan 300zx

**Zeppa** · 17-08-2011, 06:56 PM

Hi I'm looking to tune my 1990 Nissan 300Zx (no turbo) and I would like to know where I should begin

**turbonutter69** · 17-08-2011, 07:11 PM

Hello and Welcome to TorqueCars.

Hope you enjoy your time with us.

***waynne*** · 17-08-2011, 07:11 PM

How much are you looking to spend and will it be a daily driver?

**Zeppa** · 17-08-2011, 07:14 PM

It's going to be my summer toy, I have a jetta thats going to be my daily driver. I've never tuned a car before so I dont really know how much is a good amount to spend.

**Zeppa** · 17-08-2011, 07:24 PM

I plan on getting a cold air intake, and I'd like an exhaust from the headers back but I don't know what brands i should get and what i should do after I'm done those things

***T9 man*** · 17-08-2011, 08:20 PM

Greetings and Welcome to our TorqueCars car Forum

Feel free to have a look around the website, there are many varied and interesting articles to read on all manner of car modifying subjects.
Also, you may find our members project threads and photo gallery very useful as a source of inspirational ideas towards your own special project!

Enjoy!

**SLEEPER** · 18-08-2011, 01:24 AM

You need to be specific with tune.

first question what power do you want - that will decide what you need to do which in turn will decide the cost

Which may well change the first answer

**Zeppa** · 18-08-2011, 05:55 AM

I'd like to make 400 horsepower but I would settle for 300's

**stamford** · 18-08-2011, 01:45 PM

Welcome to TorqueCars

What is it running at present? No idea what stock bhp is on one of these.

***waynne*** · 18-08-2011, 03:12 PM

You'd need a turbo to hit 400bhp IMO!

The best mods for a car engine are as follows.
Internal work yields the biggest gains, head work like porting polishing and 3 angle valve jobs will maximise the airflow and raise the power.

If you want to go to the max then cryo treat the block, get it rebored and look into blueprinting and balancing as well.

Bigger valves are an obvious addon but not all engines are suitable as it depends how close together the OEM valves are.

A fast road cam will yield good power gains, especially in the top end of the rev range. Don't go mad though a profile of up to 270 degrees will give the best gains without the engine becoming cammy.

The most popular power mods are induction kits (which are questionable as power mods but they can sound nice if that is your sort of thing) and sports exhausts with sports catalysts or decats.

To keep the car legal I'd recommend a sports catalyst rather than a decat.
The last mod should always be a remap as this will allow you to fully realise the power gains on offer from your mods. Turbo cars respond very well to remaps.

It's worth having a read of the articles on www.torquecars.com/tuning/ for more information on these mods and what the terms mean.

**Wcnwzrd** · 18-08-2011, 03:28 PM

In an NA 300zx you should be getting around 222hp and 198 ft lbs. Here is a list of common mods for them and about what they would cost to give you an idea of where you want to go.

Also before adding too much, you might want to do a brake upgrade, going fast is great but if you can't stop, what good is it?

HP numbers are estimates but even the small HP parts will be needed for some of the bigger HP parts so keep that in mind.

All prices are in US dollars

1. Intake (3-5 HP) $100-200
2. Exhaust (10-15 HP) $500-1200
3. ECU (7-15hp) $550+
stillen and JWT are the same thing. no difference
4. S-AFC/AFR air fuel controllers. (depend on dyno tuning with wide band O2 sensor, up to 10-15hp) $300+
5. Headers (15-20 HP, so stillen claims) $650
6. Cams (7-10 HP claimed) $550 works well with port and polished heads, but labor and ect.. makes bang for the buck low.

much better HP gains when using N20, prices and hp very with set up and kit.
Make sure your engine will take the extra stress and that you don't use it on the street. Also check local laws as I know some states here in the US have made it illegal to even have it installed in your car (even when disconnected) while driving.

lighter parts do not ADD HP but free up hp from less rotational mass on the drive train

add anytime. Underdrive Crank Pulley (7-12 HP) $150-200
add anytime. 1 piece steel/Al drive shaft (7-15hp) $300+
add with clutch change/rear main seal replacement. AL flywheel for MT (7-15hp) $350+

slotted and or cross drilled rotors $70-120 each
metal pads about $70-100 a set
stainless steel brained lines about $100 a set

and also some suspension work

springs $150-400 a set
struts $50-120 each
coil over(strut spring set) $1200+
sways $0-200
strut tower braces $90- 300 each
adj suspension parts $$$$$

**Zeppa** · 18-08-2011, 06:20 PM

alright thanks for the ideas what brands do you recommend i use because i have no ideas which ones are good?

**Wcnwzrd** · 19-08-2011, 03:26 AM

It used to be that the brands had major differences but lately it is mostly a name thing. You will still get your brandists though. I would recommend a nice throaty exhaust instead of a ricer one though, at least if you want to stay cool with the Z community. I have a link that shows a z almost identical to the one I lost as far as parts go. They did well but sure they are out of date as I put them on almost 7 years ago but a good starting point. Didn't really have many issues just had to do a ton of reading. I like HKS for intakes and Hooker for exhaust. Brembo for brakes and stillen for shocks. But that is just my personal tastes on how they felt with my driving style. It may well be different for you.

Also, is your HiCas system still functional?

**Zeppa** · 19-08-2011, 07:11 AM

I didnt know that a 90 300ZX would have the HiCas system. and how would i know if its functional?

**Zeppa** · 19-08-2011, 07:13 AM

oh also what was that link you were talking about?

**Wcnwzrd** · 19-08-2011, 04:15 PM

Here is the link
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2056686/1995-nissan-300zx

And before you ask, Yes that is the owner in the pics. Great gal and great car.

Easiest way to see is if you have a switch in the center console, near the shifter, that says on/off. If you do drive around a bit in an empty lot or similar location (please don't try in a parking lot or the streets) and do some higher speed turns. Then turn it off and do the same. With it on the rear end should feel like it is breaking loose and sliding sooner (it really isn't just feels that way). If no difference or no switch then no HiCas. Most have been removed/disabled as people are to lazy to learn to drive with the system.

**turbonutter69** · 19-08-2011, 04:30 PM

Cor blimey she's got stunning legs. And a very pert behind as well.

**Zeppa** · 19-08-2011, 04:52 PM

My 300zx doesnt have an on/off switch near the shifter, I guess i do not have the HiCas system.

**SLEEPER** · 20-08-2011, 02:02 AM

Im not fully up on your model but full hicas isnt something you usually switch off
on NIssans
It doesnt affect your straight line speed - its the computer controlled 4wS system

But it can be locked out

with a bar

**Wcnwzrd** · 20-08-2011, 06:00 AM

On the 300zx the system could be switched off on most of the years. But without it you have one less thing to worry about fudging up (and i do mean fudging) when doing your brakes/suspension.

**Zeppa** · 20-08-2011, 06:17 AM

what kind of intake should i buy, if i should buy one? (cold air, short ram, any other ones?)

**Wcnwzrd** · 20-08-2011, 04:23 PM

cold air would be best as I highly doubt you will be traveling at high enough speeds most of the time to make the ram one useful. If you don't often have rain/water issues then you can mount a cold air intake in the lower portion of the bumper pretty easy. If you do then I would suggest a box around it to help prevent flooding the engine, literally.